Roseanne, 5.9R, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

If you are looking for a shorter day than Lucky Streaks and/or the Regular route on Fairview then Roseanne and the Great Pumpkin, 5.8R, are viable options.   Roseanne is located on the opposite side of the same corner system that makes up Lucky Streaks.  Lucky starts to the left of the massive left facing corner and Roseanne starts in the right facing corner of the same feature and tops out on the west shoulder vs closer to the summit like Lucky.  Lucky Streaks trends left and Roseanne trends right.  Roseanne offers up thought provoking route finding and run out skills as compared to the Great Pumpkin which itself is rated "R".  It is definitely a step up from the Great Pumpkin or the Regular Route for that matter, and many feel that it borders 5.10- vs 5.9.   Its first pitch climbs the corner and breaks out of the corner before the rightward arch via bolts.  One of those bolts protects one of the cruxes of the route before making a traverse up and right to a fixed belay in a scoop.  The 2^nd pitch climbs up and left and then traverses right again across glass like varnish to access a shallow right facing corner.  Climb the corner to its terminus and more bolts to a fixed anchor.  The third pitch is extremely runout, one real bolt (one hidden ancient one) and one flake offering pro.  But the grade eases the higher you get before reaching the next bolted anchor.  The 4^th (exit) pitch is relatively easy compared to the first three.

Park at the pullout on the south side of the road as you would for Lucky Streaks or the Regular Route, 3.4 miles west of the Tuolumne Store.  This is an official trail head.  When it forks, take the rightward fork for Lucky Streaks.  Lucky Streaks starts within a broad left facing corner system.  On the other side of this corner system, the right facing corner, is Roseanne (not in the local guide as of 2020). 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 220’-5.9/ All of Roseanne's pitches border line the “R” rating for runout but the crux moves on this first pitch are protected at the first bolt (above the corner).  Climb the corner below grade and pull out of it onto the left face before the arch.  Climb straight up to a bolt and make a crux move of the route via slab and polished knobs above the first bolt.  Traverse up and right through two other bolts.  Thoughtful knob and slab climbing exist on the traverse as well.  As with most runout knobby routes in Tuolumne, route finding is at play between bolts that are hard to see.  Finish at a four bolt (2020) semi hanging belay.  Extend your placements to avoid rope drag.  Can prob rap straight down with a 70m to 5^th class downclimbing if need be.

2^nd Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Place a #.75 in the under cling for directional and climb the flake up and left clipping a bolt above it. Traverse right for another crux of the route and experience the slippery polish for feet whilst making intricate exposed face climbing moves at the grade up and right through another bolt to the start of the right facing corner.  Climb the corner and pull out onto the left wall as it peters out and clip a 3^rd bolt before reaching the fixed anchor at another semi-hanging belay. 

3^rd Pitch- 150’- 5.8R/ Start the exclusive knob climbing portion of the climb.  Run it out to the lone protection bolt (an ancient one higher up is difficult to impossible to find from below and is suspect at best) on the pitch.  Then trend up and right to a small flake crack for some pro, then trend back up and left through an old bolt/hanger (2020) through stepped ledges below the grade, but quite run out, to a hard to see and relatively new (2020) fixed anchor at a small ledge.

4^th Pitch- 150’- 5.8/ Climb up and right on more knobs at the grade to directly below the roof.  Traverse left and pull up and over the roof below grade.  Traverse up and right via relatively easy climbing and good gear to the same sloped ledge shoulder of the dome that the Great Pumpkin finishes on. Small gear anchor.

Climbing Sequence

Descent 

Traverse southwest to low angled slab, descend 4th class slab straight down and cut back east to the base of the route and the trail to the parking area.

Essential Gear

Single to #2 will suffice as this is mostly just a run out knob and face climb.  Few draws and a few slings.   Shady until mid to late afternoon.  Biner your approach shoes for the walk off.