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Rosenlauistock West Ridge
Route

Rosenlauistock West Ridge

 
Rosenlauistock West Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.67310°N / 8.18100°E

Object Title: Rosenlauistock West Ridge

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: UIAA IV+, A0 (YDS 5.7)

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2004 / Aug 23, 2010

Object ID: 161822

Hits: 3444 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Introduction

 
Engelhörner
Rosenlauistock on the left



Rosenlauistock at 2198 meters is the lowest pinnacle of the west group that includes Tannenspitze, Engelburg and Sattelspitzen. One can climb these towers separately or traverse the entire group from west to east.






Approach

From the Engelhorn hut, follow the hut trail towards Rosenlaui until below the NW flank of Rosenlauistock. Here there is an obvious fork in the trail, which leads to the base of the west ridge. Follow this trail, which descends a little until one reaches the beginning of a set of plates, which are climbed to reach a continuation of the trail. Stay on the trail until a prominent gully that descends from the west flank. Follow this gully towards a grassy pass until the beginning of the west ridge proper is seen and traverse over to it on the climber's trail. About 1/2 hour from the hut.

If not staying at the hut, watch for the fork on the way up.

Route Description

 
Rosenlauistock from the west
View up route


The first pitch of UIAA III reaches a grassy shoulder, which is crossed to the base of a gully. Up the slightly overhanging chimney/gully, which is the crux at UIAA V+ or IV+ A0 to the ridge proper. Now up the ridge crest and through a small talus filled gully, UIAA III. Left out of the gully via a small, steep crack with good holds, UIAA III. Holding to the right, a series of cracks are ascended - UIAA III+ to IV - and then to the left to the base of the actual summit block of Rosenlauistock. Here there are 2 choices. The direct ascent through cracks in two pitches of UIAA IV+ to V or the "Classic"route which first traverses to left into the NW flank (UIAA IV) and over steep rock bands to the summit, UIAA III. 1 1/2 to 2 hours from the base.






Descent

Downclimb/scramble the exposed SE flank to the pass between Rosenlauistock and Tannenspitze. From here the traverse of the West Group is continued, but if descending, continue down the grassy slopes on the climber's trail until an easy to find rappel station (the "Liftwing") is reached. After rappeling 20m, continue on the trail and over plates back to the base of the west ridge.

Essential Gear

50 m rope, regular rack (some protection in place, but some of it is suspect), slings, carabiners, rappel gear, helmet!

Images

Rosenlauistock from the westEngelhörnerfrom mid routeview from the top