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Route-finding crux of route...

 
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Route-finding crux of route...
Route-finding crux of route up Unicorn Peak's north summit, taken from the north summit. Climb steep class 3/4 to the large platform with a rusty bolt. From there, descend a few feet into a "chimney", squeeze under a boulder and make an exposed hand traverse. Follow the path of least resistance (class 3/4) to the summit.

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Bob Burdnice

Bob Burd

Hasn't voted

Good photo Morgan! Shows the crux beautifully.
Posted Sep 25, 2003 12:12 am

Matthew HollimanRe: nice

Matthew Holliman

Voted 10/10

Yes, this is a fantastic picture!
Posted Sep 25, 2003 12:32 am

mpbroRe: nice

mpbro

Hasn't voted

Thanks, guys. I remember sitting on the big platform for quite a while, puzzling over what to do next. Squeezing under that boulder seemed an odd proposition for someone my size....
Posted Sep 25, 2003 1:33 pm

Dave KRe: nice

Dave K

Voted 10/10

Yes, this is a good depiction of the crux of the route. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but it is quite awkward and pretty damned airy. Memorable, too!
Posted Sep 25, 2003 3:00 pm

Aaron JohnsonI'M IGNORANT

Aaron Johnson

Hasn't voted

Guys-please enlighten me. What is a "hand traverse?"
Posted Sep 25, 2003 3:52 pm

mpbroRe: I'M IGNORANT

mpbro

Hasn't voted

Well, in this case, it's a normal traverse, but the hands are much better than the feet. Also, if you're tall, you've got an overhanging boulder in your face, which means you have to hang out over 200 feet+ of air.



But, the terminology is not mine--Secor also calls it a "hand traverse".



-Morgan
Posted Sep 25, 2003 5:01 pm

Dave KRe: My Leap

Dave K

Voted 10/10

Wow: that must've been hairy. The platform is wide and flat, but the exposure makes screwing up unthinkable.
Posted Jun 3, 2004 9:01 pm

Matthew HollimanRe: My Leap

Matthew Holliman

Voted 10/10

I saw a couple of guys doing exactly that when I was up there. It was scary enough watching them--I couldn't imagine doing that myself. (I was roped in, so I chose to downclimb). BTW, I have a Quicktime video of one of those guys doing the "downjump" on my webpage (under 7/4/2003).
Posted Jun 3, 2004 10:42 pm

WobbyRe: My Leap

Wobby

Hasn't voted

hey yeah, I remeber doing the same thing. I guess I just wanted to face the exposure head on rather than backwards :)
Posted May 12, 2009 2:34 am

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mpbroSubmitted by mpbro
on Sep 21, 2003 3:00 pm

Image ID: 28627
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Lat/Lon: 37.84580°N / 119.3811°W
Object Title: Route-finding crux of route...