From Marrakech, take a cab to Imlil, then hike the trail for 6-8hours, to arrive at the Neltner Hut (alt. 3.200m). On the way from Imlil to the hut, you first follow the left flank of the river (meaning your right side, if you go upstream). If you want a nice stop to acclimatize or just rest, you can spend the night at "Chez Omar le Rouge", which is set in a nice enough spot. Then the landscape becomes drier, and at a turn of the road, you will discover the village of Aremd perched on a hill. There should be a nice cafe opened here by the time I write this. The road reaches the riverbed and disappears. Cross the scree to the right bank (your left), and follow the now narrower valley leading to Toubkal. At some point, you will happen upon the very small village of Sidi Chamrouch, which is nothing more than two or three houses around a strikingly white marabout. (Be aware that this marabout is haunted !). After crossing the small stream at Sidi Chamrouch, you are again on the left bank. Do not stay too close to the small river, for the road might be a little difficult to find. It stays relatively higher on the flank. If in winter, you should be crossing the snowline by now. You will pass the Ikhibi nord on your left, which is an alternate route, slighlty more difficult. (and maybe made more thrilling by the presence of the rests of a crashed helicopter). Within minutes, you should see the Neltner Hut.

Route Description

From the Neltner Hut, go to the obvious col at the rear of the new refuge. If in winter, you will have to find your way crossing the small frozen river, which might be tricky. Start at the right of the slope, go up until almost to the rocks, then traverse to the left, avoiding a rock and ice cliff to the middle-left of this slope. Then just go up following the Ikhibi. There is a small circus in the center of which stands a big round rock. it is a nice place to rest or lunch. Then go on up aiming at the final col which is now visible. You pass a first small pseudo-col, and enter the old crater. You can now see both the summit ridge (the summit itself beeing hidden almost to the top) and the col. Climb to the col to your right, then aim at the summit ridge. Stick not too far from the big vertical drop to your right, and do not go too low to your left, the slope gets more and more angled and is dangerous in winter. (ususally dead hard frozen). Most accidents happen here.
If you start from the refuge at around 9 am, you should be on the summit around 1 or 2.

Essential Gear

in winter, crampons are strongly advisable. Some people use a rope for the summit ridge.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images