Approach
From the Martin-Busch-Hut: 3 h until the foot of the northface (3250m) over the Marzellglacier, direction: Similaunjoch.
Route Description
The northface is quite regularly steep, between 45° and 55° (key passage at the end). It does not have seracs. It is 350 m high. You need 2 1/2 - 4 h for the face. In early summer, there is no objective danger except snowboarders coming down ... Later in the summer, it becomes snowless, and the danger of rockfall rises. This northface is not difficult and therefore suitable for beginners of northface climbing. Nevertheless, the view is beautiful. Normally, you do not need any rope. It is simply a pleasure tour. The route goes through the middle-left part of the northface and directly to the summit. The problems at the end (at the climbing out) are the snow cornices.
Essential Gear
2 ice-axes, crampons.
Images
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