OverviewSimilaun is one of the classic glacier mountains of the Ötztal Alps – or perhaps the most classic for some reasons.
The normal route to Similaun is a rather easy glacier walk with a nice firn ridge at the end. So it is the ideal trip for beginners and thousands (including me) have climbed Similaun as their first glacier mountain.
Smilaun was also well-known for its icy north face. But as a tribute to global warming the ice has melted completely in the upper part in the last decade. So this climb can only be done in spring after a winter with much snow. Much more popular nowerdays is climbing Similaun with ski in spring, often as a part of the multi-day route "Venter Ski-Runde"
Getting There1. To the Similaun:
- a. You can come from the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m).
- b. You can come from the Similaunhütte (3019m).
2. To the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):
- You reach the hut from Vent in Ötztal in 2 1/2 h. You have only to follow the wide road (without cars). It is marked with the number 923. It is a very beautiful way with a wonderful view through the valley along the river. There is no problem on this road.
- You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden and Zwieselstein with bus/taxi or car. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn right to the Venter Tal.
- You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at Ötztal.
3.To the Similaunhütte (3019m):
- You reach the hut a. from Vent via Martin-Busch-Hut in 4-5h on a partly marked way, and b. from Vernagt in 3-4h. It is a marked way (no. 2). You need a secure step. If there is snow it could be a little bit tricky.
- You reach Vernagt on the road from Naturns/Naturno via Madonna di S. Naturns is just a few kilometers western of Meran. You reach it from Meran on the road no. ss38.
Routes-Overview1. Normal route/west ridge
- from the Martin-Busch-Hut (3 1/2 to 5 hours) or from the Similaunhut (1-2h); descent: W-ridge in 3/4 h to Similaunhütte, 2 h to Martin-Busch-Hütte
- steep firn flank, from Martin-Busch-Hut, 1 h from Similaunjoch
- from Vorderkaser (6-7h) or from Mittelkaser (5-6h) or from Unser Frau (6-7 h)
- from Martin-Busch-Hut, 4-5 h, exhausting because of many ups and downs, but nice landscape
- 50°, rocks UIAA II, 350m, 2,5-4 h
When To ClimbGenerally March to May with ski and June to September on foot are the usual season times
- 1:25000 no. 30/1 Ötztaler Alpen. Gurgl
(to order at DAV Shop)
Infos1. GENERAL INFOS:
- Phone: ++49-89-295070 (DAV)
- Avalanches (Tyrol): ++43-512-1588 (OeAV)
1. Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):
The Martin-Busch-Hütte is situated southeastern below the Kreuzspitze, in the back Niedervalley.
- according to Klier:
- 176 beds
- winter room with 15 beds (open)
- serviced from 1. March till Whitsun and from 25. June till the end of september
- phone: ++43(0)5254/8130 (valley)
- internet: Martin-Busch-Hütte
2. Similaunhütte (3019m):
The Similaunhütte is situated above the W-side of the Niederjochglacier on italian territory. Official border transition: 30. june to 30. september.
- according to Klier:
- 60 beds
- serviced from the end of february to middle of may, middle june to middle october
- phone: ++43(0)5254/8119 (Austria) or ++390(0)473/89711 (Italy)
- internet: Similaunhütte
Route description with pictures (in German)
- Austrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German
In memoriam Rahel Maria Liu
Rahel was the original writer of this page. She was a skilled and enthusiastic climber with a preferrence for north faces and had climbed Similaun north face in 1999.
Rahel froze to death on 24/25th August 2004 in a heavy snowstorm during a climb of the Innominata Spur on the southern (Italian) face of Mont Blanc. She was only 34 years old.
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