There are two ways to approach the climbs in Oak Creek Canyon:

1) FROM THE OAK CREEK CAYNON PARKING AREA
Start at the Oak Creek Canyon parking area located at the end of a spur road leading off the scenic loop road (mile XX.X). The approach is very straightforward. Just follow the obvious trail for about a mile from the parking area to the front of Oak Creek Canyon (the canyon that separates Mount Wilson from Rainbow Mountain).

2) FROM THE OLD OAK CREEK CAMPGROUND
This is a good choice for those climbers who want to get an early start (the scenic loop road doesn't open until 6am). This approach is a little longer, but it is very straightforward. Begin at Oak Creek Campground which is 1.4 miles south on Nevada 159 from the exit of the loop road. Or, you can start at any of the nearby pullouts. Hike on Oak Creek Road (dirt, no cars) or on one of the many nearby trails to the front of Oak Creek Canyon.

IN THE CANYON
Once you've entered the canyon via either of the above approaches, walk up the wash a few hundred yards until a steep, brown wall on the left side of the canyon drops down to the stream bed. If you reach a fork in the canyon, you've gone too far. Scramble up brown slabs on the right side of the canyon. You should be aiming for a left-facing corner system with an obvious "v-notch" about 150ft up. This corner starts approximately 600ft above the wash.

Route Description

The Black Orpheus is a pretty long route with some easy climbing in the middle. The lower pitches are ok, but the upper pitches are absolutely fantastic. The route is in the sun for most of the day, so plan accordingly.

Begin in the first left-facing corner that is to the right of a large, light-colored wall that is at the bottom of a big, dark-colored buttress (don't start at the left facing corner that forms the right side of the light colored wall, but rather the next corner to the right of that...look at the photo ;-)

Pitch 1 (5.7) Head up the left-facing corner to the v-notch. You'll pass two bolts on your way. (150')

Pitch 2 (5.8) Continue up the corner and past a left leaning crack on less than perfect rock. Step right and up a corner to a large ledge. (150')

Pitch 3 (5.5) Diagonal left on a big ledge, then up cracks to a point just above varnished rock near lower angled white rock. (140')

Pitch 4 (5.0) Run up easy rock to a ledge. (150')

Pitch 5 (Class 4) Run up more easy rock, angling left. (140')

Pitch 6 (Class 4) Traverse left to the very end of the ledges. (180')

Pitch 7 (5.9) Now the fun starts! You're high above Oak Creek Canyon, and you have some incredible climbing ahead of you. Traverse left on very exposed terrain to the base of a dihedral. Make a tricky move to get up into the dihedral, then stem and jam your way up on perfect rock. Exit right onto a belay ledge. (160')

Pitch 8 (5.9+) This is the crux! It's short, but intense. The Urioste guide book calls it 5.10. It's easier if you have long arms. There are two bolts here, so it's safe. Crank up the thin, steep crack utilizing nice, two-finger hold. Then follow more beautiful hand cracks up to a ledge above. (120')

Pitch 9 (5.7) Another terrific pitch. The Urioste guidebook calls it 5.8. Pull on jugs and lieback up a very uniform-width crack, then exit right to the belay (120').

Pitch 10 (5.5+) Traverse right on the loose, pink face past some bolts to the top. (160').

DESCENT
Coming soon....

Essential Gear

A standard rack.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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