This is probably the second most climbed route on the mountain. The rock sections are frequently iced up making the climbing perhaps a little more difficult than the advertised UIAA III.
It is common to do the route starting from the Jungfraujoch using the first train to Jungfraujoch. This is OK only if you know what you're doing and able to do the route very fast. Otherwise, an early start from the Mönchsjochhütte is advised.
ApproachThe climb starts near the Jungfraujoch. To reach the Jungfraujoch most people use the Jungfraujoch-Bahn from Grindelwald / Kleine Scheidegg.
A good starting point is the Mönchsjochhütte, 1/2-3/4 hour directly west from the Jungfraujoch.
From the Jungfraujoch you turn left from the trail to the Mönchsjochhütte. After about 200 m turn left and go directly to the base of the SW-Ridge (most of the time you'll find a path).
You reach this point from the Mönchsjochhütte in the opposite way : go down the trail, somewhat before the Jungfraujoch turn right to reach the start of the SW-Ridge.
Route DescriptionFrom the start of the ridge scramble up some easy rock. After some easy pitches you reach a kind of a step, this is the most difficult point of the route (rock climbing up to UIAA Grade III). After this step mainly follow the ridge.
Use a gully to go up a section of loose rock. Now you are at the base of a very steep part of the ridge. To avoid this turn left for about one pitch.
Finally you reach the upper snow part of the SW-ridge, the route there joins with the Nollen-Route. Go up the easy but somewhat exposed snow fields up to the summit.
SOME OF THE ROCK CLIMBING ON THE ROUTE