The W-ridge of the Salbitschiijen is the longest and perhaps the best ridge climb of the whole alps. It's a very impressive,
very hard, very long and very challenging climb on perfect rock.

Some years ago it was common to do this route in two days, today most parties will need between 10-12 hours for the ascent. The route has 35 pitches up to 6+/7-, the most difficult pitches are near the end of the route. The crux pitch is normally aided using a bolt ladder. If one climbs this pitch free, it may be a 7+ (but less people will do that).

The W-ridge of the Salbitschiijen consists of 5 big towers. The route travels over all this towers up to the summit. There are three escapes from the route at the notches between tower 2/3, tower 3/4 and tower 4/5. These escapes are not recommended, to be used only in case of trouble. There is a point of no return after one rappels from tower 5. But there the most difficult pitches have still to be done ! There is no water all over the route.

First ascent: B. and E. Favre and L. Henchoz, 1948

Approach

The start of the Salbitschiijen W-ridge is directly behind the Salbit-bivy (SAC, 2402 m). The Salbit-bivy has enough space for 10 persons. Water can be find about 100 meters SE of the bivy. There are two possibilities to reach the Salbit-bivy:

From the Salbithütte (SAC, 2105 m): A good path leads first to the base of S-ridge and then to the bivy. Between the S-ridge and the bivy there is a kind of via ferrata. This via ferrata can be a great fun after one has climbed the W-ridge, descented the mountain and finally want to go back to the bivy. It may take 1-2 hours from the Salbit-hut to the bivy.

From the Göschener-valley: Park your car at the parking area at the Voralpkurve, a prominent bend at the road leading from Göschenen to the Göscheneralp-lake (1404 m). There a trail starts, leading to the Voralp-huts. Follow this trail up to the Alp Horefelli (1786 m). There a small, marked path bends right and up to the Horefelli-couloir. When the couloir forks one uses the right part up to a grass saddle (2202 m). Turning right and up (good path) brings one finally
to the bivy. This approach is faster (3-4 hours) then the approch via the Salbit-hut (4-5 hours in total) but not so easy to find. Do not try to find this by night.

Route Description

From the bivy walk up to the start of the route at the base of the first tower. The first pitch is a foul. From the very first move this is very exhausting 6+/7- pitch on steep cracks. After that beginning the top of the first tower is reached in 6 pitches rated 4/5. When reaching the top of the first tower one have to walk to the E end of the tower with two abseils (12m, 20m). Now one has reached the notch between tower one and tower two. No escape at this place.

Now the second tower have to be climbed. The following two pitches are great ! Climb up obvious cracks in two pitches (5+, 6). Then following the ridge for other three pitches (4,5,5) up to the top of the second tower (good bivy). There two other abseils (8m, 45 m) are starting to the notch between tower 2 and tower 3. At this notch an escape line is going down at the S-side.

The next job is to climb the third tower. This is done using the ridge himself straight forward in three pitches up to 5. Stay slightly right most time. From the top of the third tower one have to rappel once again (40 m). This brings one to the notch between tower three and tower four. There an other escape line is going down at the S-side.

The fourth tower is climbed from the notch 3/4 in four fantastic pitches (5-,6+,6-,5+). From the top an abseil is going down 45m to the north side. After rapelling an easy traverse leads to the beginning of a 4+ pitch witch finally leads to the notch between tower four and five. There the last escape line (direction S) is located.

To climb the fivth tower climb three pitches on the south side of the ridge (4,6,5+). Especially the second one is a very good one, using a big crack. Really great climbing, very exhausting. From the top of tower five an other rappel have to be done (20 m) to the notch between tower five and the final part of the ridge.

From this notch climb one easy pitch (3) up to a chain. Going down 6 m and do a pendulum to the beginning of a crack. Climb this crack (rated 4) up to the crest of the ridge to a good belay. Then say "have fun ... " to your partner. This is the point of no return ! The next pitch is the crux. In former times, this crux is done by aiding a small crack at the crest of the ridge. The old piton are still visible. If one climb this crack free it may be a 7+. Today a bolt ladder at the S-side of the ridge heads up this pitch. From the end of the bolt ladder climb up to a bolted belay (6,A1). Then climb up a very steep, very exposed pitch (2 bolts) with a big run out (rated 6) to the crest of the ridge.Following the ridge up to the summit for other 4-5 pitches (rated 3-5). Finally one reaches the summit, there the famous summit needle is waiting.

The summit needle is climbed at the east face in a 15 m pitch. At the top there is a bolt, use this to rappel from the needle (a very good place to take photos !).

Descent

Descent the regular route, this will take about 2 hours from the summit to the Salbit-hut or about 2-3 hours to the Salbit-bivy (shortcut possible).

Caution: The descent route is using a snow covered couloir, below the snow there is a creek. The descent path is at the right boundary of that couloir (there is a good path).

DO NOT USE THE MIDDLE OF THE COULOIR !

There where some accidents, some climbers are drowned after they breaked through the snow and then falled into the creek.

Essential Gear

double rope, slings, medium rack, maybe 2-3 pitons for accidents, water, food, helmet

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.