Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.93400°N / 6.83800°E |
Route Type:
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Well bolted rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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French 6a+ |
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Approach
From the top of the Brevent lift (15.50 euro, 2004), head off to the right as if you were going to go down under the lift, in the summer this is a gravel road. After about 15-20 minutes depart from the road on the right hand side and follow cairns to the start of climb.
If I remember the info from the Les Aiguilles Rouges guidebook correctly this route was only recently put up in 2000. (That is what the guidebook says but more accurately stated, the route was re-bolted in 2000, see article under Misc. on Main Page) It is a FANTASTIC route and the 4th pitch is a combination of all sorts of climbing techniques. I do wonder how long this route will remain in "condition" to climb.
Route Description
First pitch is nice 6a; would recommend belaying second from top of vertical section and not from the belay stance which is another 12 meters across a slight scree patch. Second pitch is 5b which heads off up and to the right from the belay stance. Rock is real unstable and must use extreme caution when weighting anything with hands and feet; finishes with a traverse to the right to reach the belay; you won't be able to see it until you've edged out on the traverse ledge and are fervently hoping it's not higher or lower from where you are now. Third pitch is 5c which continues up and right to a very solid belay "pit." The fourth pitch is the crux and while the guide book rates it the same as the first pitch, 6a, for the variety of climbing styles and difficulty over this one awesome pitch, I think a "+" is without question a necessary addition. The belayer will not be able to see any of the leader's moves after the first two moves, rather unfortunate on this challenging pitch. The fith pitch is a traverse to the left (behind the outcrop of rock in the photo) to get to the start of the last pitch, a magnificent 5c dihedral which will take 12 or 13 quick-draws.
Descend via the Brevent telepherique that is a two minute walk away from where you top out.
Climbing time from bottom of route to top was 3.5 hours without any time lost to other groups.
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Essential Gear
two 50 meter double ropes
14 quick-draws
helmets
a few large cams for the crux may prove useful
Miscellaneous Info
The day we climbed this, we only saw one other party way ahead of us. It was a beautiful day and I still don't know why there were not more people lining up at the start...but after getting up onto the rock I guessed that due to the condition of the rock on the route (friable), perhaps the local guides think there are safer ways to make a living, particularly on the second and third pitches.
Published guided cost of this route is 200 euros.