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RPC's Leavenworth Cragging
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RPC's Leavenworth Cragging

 
RPC\'s Leavenworth Cragging

Page Type: Custom Object

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Type: Custom List

Object Title: RPC's Leavenworth Cragging

 

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Jan 29, 2010 / Sep 3, 2010

Object ID: 592890

Hits: 2263 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

 
Meat Grinder
Meatgrinder
 
The Fault
Fault/Catapult

Ongoing effort...trying to organize my SP submissions during the winter days...We've been visiting Leavenworth mostly in the springtime for 5 or 6 years now (that and the couple of times we failed and/or got rained off from something in North Cascades). The routes we've done have all been very good. The only downside to Leavenworth climbing is that in many cases, a significant hiking/driving around is needed to access a bunch of single & double pitch routes in a day (more so than many other cragging places we've been to).

Castle Rock, Fault/Catapult (5.8)

 
Catapult
 
 
Catapult
 

A three pitch line that starts at road level and brings you to the Loggers Ledge midway up Castle Rock's face. I recall the middle pitch as being fun (The Catapult) and the rest I don't quite recall...
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock
Fault/Catapult

Castle Rock, Saints (5.8)

 
Beginning the lead of P1 of...
 
 
Saints
 

Semi-obscure line that starts left of Angel Crack and reaches the top of Castle Rock in 3 pitches. The first pitch was fun and the rest kinda standard-blocky climbing (bit of moss too). 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock
Saints

Castle Rock, Angel Crack ("5.7")

 
Angel
 
 
Angel
 

Fred Beckey's 5.7 line...the guidebooks give the starting finger crack a .10- rating now. Was barely able to onsight it :) but we did not do the upper pitches (reportedly truer 5.7). First pitch: 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock

Castle Rock, Damnation Crack (5.9)

 
Damnation Crack
 
 
Damnation Crack
 

Fist crack in a dihedral with a finishing flared chimney. One pitch but very fun! 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars IMHO.
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock

Castle Rock, Midway (5.6)

 
Midway
Midway, P1
 
Midway
Midway, P2

A nice introductory classic on upper Castle Rock. Think we've done it twice by 2 variations on upper pitch. First pitch is a bit polished. 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock
Midway

Castle Rock, Canary (5.8+)

 
Canary
P2
 
Canary
P3

From what little we've done there, this was the best line on Castle Rock!! Pitch 1 is great and pitch 2 is just incredible, esp. love the starting traverse. 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars. Hi Five!!
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock
Canary

Castle Rock, Crack Of Doom (5.10b)

 
Crack Of Doom
P3
 
Crack Of Doom
P2

Nice route with a strenuous crux on P2...pitch 1 and pitch 3 though are nothing special IMHO. 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Castle Rock
Crack Of Doom

Snow Creek Wall, Orbit (5.8+)

 
Orbit
 
 
Orbit
 

Wrote up a trip report long time ago. When we did it back then, I recall working hard on it. Fun route with a few cool positions! 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Snow Creek Wall
Orbit

Snow Creek Wall, Remorse (5.8)

 
Remorse
 

A variation start to Outer Space (we got rained off from the tree ledge before launching up OS). Nicer than the standard way of getting up to the money pitches on OS but nothing particularly special IMHO. 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Snow Creek Wall
Remorse

Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space (5.9)

 
Outer Space
 
 
Outer Space
 

Photo Album. An amazing classic! The opening pitches to access the Tree Ledge are nothing special but once there, the real fun begins! In fact, would love to go back and do it again!
4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Snow Creek Wall
Outer Space

Givler's Dome, Givler's Crack (5.8)

 
Givler s Dome
 
 
Givler s Crack
 

Long approach but the two pitch line was tons of fun from what I recall - great low grade intro into hand cracks!
4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Leavenworth Crags

Icicle Buttress, Cocaine Connection & R&D (5.7)

 
Icicle Creek Buttress
 

Cocaine Connection is a slabby (bolted) 5.7 pitch that replaces some low 5th class climbing on the start of the R&D (5.6) route. Super popular with large groups of Mountaineers...get there first or bring a lawn chair and patience. 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars.
Beta Pages:
Leavenworth Crags

Icicle Buttress, Cocaine Crack (5.10a)

 
Cocaine Crack
 
 
Cocaine Crack
Cocaine Crack

A pitch of low 5th used to access a short but very pretty finger crack! Fun climb and well worth a stop while driving the road below. 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars...would be better if only a little bit longer.
Beta Pages:
Leavenworth Crags

Images