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Ryan Arete
Route

Ryan Arete

 
Ryan Arete

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Ryan Arete

Route Type: Trad start, sport finish.

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.11a

Route Quality: 
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Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Mar 10, 2003 / Sep 3, 2008

Object ID: 157820

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Approach

Hike to Koala Rock, see the main page for details. The easiest way to describe the approach is to look at the primary photo. From the lowest part of the rock, follow the base until you see the first shadow. Above the shadow is a white streak. Left of the white streak is an indistinct crease. That's Ryan Arete.
The easiest way to get to the climb is to hike out on a use trail away from the cliff face. Switchback, then hike back in toward the formation. The scree next to the cliff is a loose pumice\tuff that feels like hiking in fossilized soap suds, and is nearly impossible.

Route Description

Finding the route is fairly simple, look for the prominent white dihedral, then look left for the arete, which is quite distinct when the climber is standing below it. To the left of the arete is a steep face, with thin cracks zigzagging over it. This is the beginning of the climb.
Climb carefully along the face, following thin cracks, until reaching a bolt. From the bolt, head right toward the arete, which is bolt protected. Pinch grips, flagging, and other fun balancey climbing along the arete lead to rappel chains.
Note: The thin crack section may be bolted now, it used to be led with RP's.

Essential Gear

Brass nuts, small stoppers, and aliens for the crack section, Quickdraws for the sporty arete. Some long quickdraws or a couple of shoulder slings cut out any ropedrag.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Koala Rock from summit of...Koala Rock with the shadows...