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Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverse

Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverse


Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverse

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: R/X

Number of Pitches: 3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: corvallis

Created/Edited: Mar 26, 2008 / Mar 30, 2008

Object ID: 391500

Hits: 2590 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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The easiest route to the summit of the Kangaroo contains some serious old school 5.6 and lots of rotten rock. The climbing is cool, up some very cool features, but is not a beginner route. So remember you could fall a long ways on this route and get hurt.

Getting There

Hike out past Brogan Spire to the north side of the Kangaroo behind the Wallaby. There is a distinct ampitheater where this climb begins.

Route Description

North Ledges Traverse Topo

P1 - 5.6R - 60ft - Boulder up and into the ampitheater head back to the chimney formed by the Kangaroo and the Joey.

P2 - 5.6R/X - 80ft - Chimney up to a bolt, and start the ledges traverse. Continue right past 2 old bolts and a horrible fixed pin. There is a possible #4 camalot placement to back up the fixed pin but you must climb up to place it and then climb back down. Eventually you will find your self at a 3 bolt belay with one new bolt. This pitch is pretty serious for the grade with lots of loose rock.

P3 - 5.3R - 60ft - Climb up the solid slab to the summit. There are no rappel anchors on the summit, so you must down climb this pitch. There are a few cam placements to help.

Descent: From the summit, downclimb P3 to the top of P2, make 1 single rope rappel to the ground.

P1 & P2 link easily but create rope drag and put your belayer in the rock fall zone.

Essential Gear

6 Long slings
4 Cams .5-2" and mabey a 4"

External Links

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North Ledges Traverse Topo