OverviewSaraghrar 7349m is the 4th highest independent massif in the Hindu Kush mountain range after Terich Mir 7708m, Noshaq 7492m and Istor o Nal 7403m. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7000m (22966ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from various expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are:
Saraghrar Main 7349m, Saraghrar Central 7330m, Saraghrar NW summit 7300m, Saraghrar SW summit 7148m, Saraghrar South summit 7307m and Saraghrar SE summit 7208m.
In 1958 a British Expedition led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the Main Summit 7349m. This expedition was stopped by the death of a member, P.S Nelson. The year after, on August 24th 1959, the North and the Main Summit were climbed for the 1st time by an Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini, including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Professor Carlo Alberto Pinelli. Their route ascended via the Niroghi Glacier on the North East of the massif.
On August 24th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, member of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro (Mountaineering Club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol Glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka Climbing Club) led by Akiyama Reiski, summitted the South West peak for the first time on July 29th. Three Catalan expedition expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the NW summit via a rocky route. On August 9th, 1982, Juan Lopez (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Liop Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the NW II summit (7200m)
In 2005, 5 members of a Swiss Expedition led by Jean Michel Zweiacker reached the South East summit 7208m for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sebastian Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24th: Marc Belanger and Jean Michel Zweiacker on July 29th) via South face. This route is the easiest one to any > 7000m peak in the region. It is known to be the safest route and also easy to access i.e. only 2 days trek to the Base Camp.
Unclimbed Peaks of Saraghrar Massif-Hindukush
Saraghrar Central ……………..... 7330m
Saraghrar North West I…….... 7300m
Saraghrar South III ………….....7280m
Saraghrar North West II ……...7250m
Saraghrar South East II ……...7185m
Saraghrar South II …………......7109m
This big massif lies at 2 days trek from jeep road, branching off at Zondrangram, after 5-6 hours drive from Chitral Town. At Zondrangram (2500m) overnight, preferably at the Terichmir Guest House. Where you will have the required facilities e.g. hot water, toilet, electricity etc. This guest house is managed by Prof: R.K.Baig, a long time Tour Guide.
Take the Roshgol valley track early in the morning, 1st half of this track is narrow and a little risky-just above the river but at 3000m the track improves. During this trek you will cross or ford two streams and reach Duru camp 3400m. This route is quite easy but ascends a gentle gradient. This route is also used by cattle during summer free grazing.
From Chitral to Zondrangram by jeep but up to BC of Saraghrar trained porters are available, who know about eco-tourism and rules of Porterage. Transport to the BC takes only 2 days and might be covered in 1 day on return
* Jeep from Chitral to Zondrangram, 5-6 hours Drive.
* Chitral to Zondrangram, per jeep Rs.7000
The organization of Porterage in the Terich valley has a history of valour, cooperation, volunteerism and tourist friendly. Here management of expeditions has a history more than a hundred year- the longest in the region. The porters engaged by expedition teams have become trained in deciding their wages and willingly agree to keep wage rate at the lowest possible level to make a team’s itinerary and budget easily and smooth. They carry their own food with them but plastic sheets are needed by them in case of heavy rains at camps during trek to Base Camp or back.
They also highly value and appreciate tips and gifts from the team such as toffees or cigarettes but one thing is traditional that during night 1 they expect and receive two goats from the team as a gift for a successful completion of the Expedition. All porters have been trained to follow rules of Eco-Tourism strictly and also help a great deal in keeping campsite pollution free. They are sensitised on this issue by local guides and Tour Operators. Thus porters’ organization is very dependable in the Hindukush region.
Red TapeRoyalty to the peaks in the High Hindukush have now been reduced considerably @ 90%. This is now an excellent opportunity to do mountaineering at lower costs in the Hindukush region. Peak royalty charged by Government of Pakistan is as under:
Full Team of 7 Members Expedition and Each Additional Member
* Saraghrar US $ 250 for 7 members expedition
* Saraghrar US $ 30 for each additional member
While making your arrangements going through a local Tour Operator definitely helps you in many ways both to effectively deal with last minute changes, permit requirements as well as porters logistic etc. At Chitral the foreigners registration is essential and hardly takes any time.
CampingCamping rates in the Hindukush are reasonable; per tent you are charged Rs 200. You are to pay charges at Zondrangram not on route further.
Chitral now offers a variety of hotels both in the upper bracket and for budget travelers.
The area is relatively clean as compared to Baltoro but with Peak royalties reduced there is going to be an influx of visitors. Please ensure that you leave the camps pristine and insist on such your programme operator to carry back garbage to road head. A policy is being framed by the locals to check that Pakistani tour operators follow the guidelines.
The importance of eco tourism has been one of the main concerns of the local tour operators and guides. They have worked to train the porters and other relevant personal to follow rules of eco tourism during treks in all parts of Hindu Kush. The tour operators, especially those who belong to the interior of Hindukush focus on the value of this aspect of mountain tourism so that there should be a uniform consensus. Even the local representative of Alpine Club of Pakistan oversees any impact that is hazardous for the fragile mountain ecology and visits campsites and tells local people about importance of eco tourism. He emphasizes that the locals should be foremost to protect everything natural around them and keep the environment as clean and pristine as it has been in the past.
When to ClimbBest season to climb the peak from June to end of September.
For local Information and Support: www.terichmirtravel.com
Terichmir Travel arranges and organizes Adventure Tours, Trekking and Mountaineering Expedition in the Hindukush and Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan.
Mountain ConditionsLocal Information on latest road, porters etc is available on:
Cell: +92 345 8746424
Expeditions PermitsIt is compulsory to get permit for the peak before climbing. In case expeditions face any delays in getting permits it is advised to contact the local Tour Operators in Chitral to solve these delays. Special permissions are officially given for special areas.
A Greek Scholar, Mountaineer and Explorer
Swiss Istor o Nal Expedition 2000
Swiss Saraghrar Expedition 2005
Austrian Istor o Nal Expedition 1996
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