OverviewThe Tirich Mir is a chain of about eleven peaks with different routes to their summits.
Tirich Mir main peak 7,708m is the highest peak of the Hindukush Mountain range and was first climbed in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition which was lead by Arne Naess. the famous Norwegian philosopher, other expedition members were P. Kvern berg and H. Berg..
Tirich Mir East with a height of 7,692m was another first Norwegian ascent done later in 1964 . Two members, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir East
Tirich Mir West II , 7,500m was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. After establishing base camp, the party set up two additional camps. In order to acclimatize itself with high altitude climbing, the party also climbed an already-climbed Dir gol Zom peak.
On July 20 1967 Tirich Mir West I , 7487m was climbed through the north west col by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Engineer Vladimir Sedovy. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top. The check expedition had not a single oxygen flask nor did they fix ropes.
Tirich Mir West III 7,400m was climbed in 1974 by Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski of France and was led by Guy Lucazeau and Bernard Amy. The sixth peak of the Tirich Mir range is Tirich Mir West IV - 7,338m. It was climbed in 1967 by Kurt Diemberger and Dietmar Proske through the very difficult north face. Diemberger also made the first circle around the Tirich Mirs. The purpose was to carry-out geological survey of the area.
Another interesting peak in the Tirich Mir range is un-named with a height of 7,100m. This peak is situated to the south of Tirich Mir Main peak.. The northern spur of Tirich Mir at 7,056m was climbed in 1965 by Kurt Diemberger, Herwig Handler and Fritz Lindner of a German - Austrian expedition.
Tirich Mir Little 6,550m was climbed in 1969 by the British-Pak Army Mountaineering expedition which was led by Maj. J. W. Fleming of the British Army.
Expedition to the main peak traverse the Lower Tirich Glacier which later branches out into upper and lower Tirich glacier. Base camp is set at Babu camp 4724m named after Babu a famous local guide still around. The jeep road goes as far as Shahgrom 2760m but an alternate route over Zani pass 3840m is an excellent way to do a short trek to Shahgrom both to acclimatize and get a good perspective of the major peak before you reach Shahgrom.
While other expedition are attempted through the Norwegians route via Barum village into the upper Barum glaciers
Jeep rates to road head were as follows in 2012.
• Chitral to Shahgrom Rs 11000
• Chitral to Zani Rs 9500
• Chitral to Arkari ovirk Rs 9000
• Chitral to Shahbronz Rs 8000
1$ = Rs 85 in 2010
There is now a daily flight from Islamabad to Chitral
There are two flights daily from Peshawar to Chitral, if there are less pessengers the second flight is cancelled.
In the Tirich valley in 2011 a flat Rs 600 per stage applied which included all inclusive. Avoid hiring at high prices but you can compensate by tipping well if good service is provided. Use your local Pakistani connections to maintain a steady balance of prices and service for those who follow you into these mountains. Rates for 2012 have gone up to Rs 700 per stage. To keep porter stage low be sure to contact local people before hand instead of hiring directly at spot.
Red TapeRED TAPE
Expeditions to the Hindukush Mountain have restarted after the area being closed for some time. The Khyber Pakhtunkhawa ( previously NWFP ) provincial government is very helpful in streamlining permit briefings etc. Hindukush Trails has been successful in convincing them to take L.O from Chitral Scouts to easy procedures and related formalities to help expeditions.
Royalty to the peaks in the Hindukush have now been reduced considerably. This is an excellent opportunity to now do mountaineering at lower costs in the Hindukush region. Peak royalty charged by government is as follows.
Height Full Team 7 members Each Additional Member
7501m to 8000m $ 400 $ 50
7001 to 7500m $ 250 $ 30
6501 to 7000m $ 150 $ 20
Below 6500m free
Height Full Team 7 members Each Additional Member
7501m to 8000m $ 200 $ 25
7001 to 7500m $ 125 $ 15
6501 to 7000m $ 75 $ 10
Below 6500m free
While making your arrangements going through a local operator definitely helps you in many ways both to effectively deal with last minute changes, permit requirements as well as porters logistic etc. At Chitral the foreigners registration is essential and hardly takes any time.
Local info www.hindukushtrails.com
When To ClimbSummers , Depending on winter snows June July or August
Camping rates in the Hindukush are reasonable, per tent you are charged Rs 50 . You are only charged at Shahgrom not on route further.
Chitral is well stocked with essentials for trekking/mountaineering expeditions but avoid purchasing tinned food stuff from the bazaar as they are mostly expired/outdated and liable to cause problems during your expedition . Also there is very little variety while Islamabad bazaars are well stocked. It is best to purchase some of the essential food from Islamabad where expeditions spend a day or two for permit requirements.
Chitral now offers a variety of hotels both in the upper bracket and for budget travelers.
For good food try a local place at Dainin, after crossing the chew bridge turn right ,near the pump ask for Golani restaurant… no mention in books but what the local flood too. The Afghan restaurants both on Goldoor road or Krubrisht provide good food. The Chapal Kebabs are best near Polo ground.
The area is relatively clean compared to the Baltoro but with Peak royalties reduced there is going to be a influx of visitors. Please ensure that you leave the camps pristine and insist on your programme operator to carry back garbage to road head. A policy is being framed by the locals to check that Pakistani tour operators follow the guide lines.
Mountain ConditionsLocal info on latest road, porter etc condition is available on
e mail firstname.lastname@example.org
Tel 92344 5010602
Hindukush Trails organizes trekking and Mountaineering in the Hindukush and Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan
EXPEDITIONS PERMITSThe Federal Ministry of Tourism has been devolved giving the provincial governments the regulating authority in deciding on permits. We will now be getting permits for the Hindukush and HinduRaj mountains from the Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa provincial government.
We are one of the expereince mountaineering and trekking organizer to Hindu Kush and Hindu Raj.
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