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The main feature on this route is the big left-leaning grey groove to the left of the overhanging bands on the south-west face.
Start from the ledges directly below the groove.
P1. 10m "F3": Climb past some suspect blocks into a short corner. Avoid a poised white flake by hand-traversing to the left so gaining a narrow ledge at the foot of the main groove.
P2. 30m "G1": Superb climbing leads up the back of the groove and out to the left around and overhang. Climb up the short corners above to a massive ledge on the right.
P3. 25m "F2": Go horizontally to the left on a narrow rail to a niche and then climb directly up on jugs to a belay ledge.
P4. 90m: An easy chimney gives access to an escape ledge whence scrambling on gargoyles leads to the summit.
FA: David Davies and Robin Barley. October, 1978
Standard trad rack
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