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SE Ridge, Normal

SE Ridge, Normal

SE Ridge, Normal

Page Type: Route

Location: Wallis, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92773°N / 7.78522°E

Object Title: SE Ridge, Normal

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD, II, 50Âș

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Diego SahagĂșn

Created/Edited: Aug 27, 2002 / Mar 9, 2016

Object ID: 156878

Hits: 6154 

Page Score: 73.59%  - 5 Votes 

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The base of the climb, Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) is approachable by cableway.

Route Description

From Klein Matterhorn (3820 m) go down to the saddle (3796 m) in front of Breithorn plateau and then head E on the broad track towards the Breithorn. Instead of climbing up, continue Eastwards over the Breithornpass (3824 m) and along under the S side of the Breithorn, below the crevasse zones of the upper Ghiacciaio di Verra. Pass below the rock island with the Cesare e Giorgio Rossi Bivouac (3750 m) and the slope to the easily reachable Schwarztor. Continue under the rocky SW spur of Pollux and move round and up to the ZWillingsjoch (Passo di Verra; 3845 m; 2-3 hours from the cableway). Now climb the, often icy, steep slope on the left (W) to the loose rocks of the SE Ridge, wich leads very airly to the summit, the last part on steep snow or ice (1 hour from the col).

Essential Gear

Rope for a team, crampons, ice axe and winter clothes. Don't forget map & gps in case you are caught in a storm.


A Beautiful FinishHigh On PolluxAbove The CruxBelow The CruxPollux CruxOn the south east ridgeClimbing the fixed ropes
The Down ClimbFinal summit ridgeOn the south east ridgeDescending from summitThe south east ridge from the Zwillingsjoch