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Pollux / Polluce

 
Pollux / Polluce

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Valle d'Aosta/Wallis, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92766°N / 7.78536°E

Object Title: Pollux / Polluce

Elevation: 13425 ft / 4092 m

 

Page By: Chandra

Created/Edited: Sep 9, 2001 / Sep 28, 2010

Object ID: 150545

Hits: 38772 

Page Score: 89.15%  - 30 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

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A classic 4.000 meter-mountain in the "Mekka-area" between Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. Pollux is the lower peak of the Twins (zwillinge). The other is Castor which is higher but less demanding. Pollux has some parts with climbing at 2+ or PD where the climb is exposed.

In the highseason in July and August 10-30 climbers will reach it on a normal day.

First climbed in 1864 by Peter Taugwalder senior and Jules Jacot.
 
Castore
THE TWINS CASTOR & POLLUX
 
Pollux, 4092m seen from the summit of Castor, 4226m.
VIEW FROM CASTOR

Getting There

From Zermatt take the cableway to Kleine Matterhorn - 3820m. From here it takes two hours nice walking on the glacier in south-east direction before the 90 minutes climb begin with a 50 degree snow slope to the top.

Can also be reached from the Monte Rosa-hutte using the same route as Castor, except one either goes up the rock wall to the top, or move over to the north ridge and up the firm to the top.

An alternative is the Italian way from Mezzalama Hut.
 
The final ridge
SUMMIT RIDGE
 
This is the most difficult...
EXCITING PART OF THE NORMAL ASCENT

Red Tape

No red tape. Except the 60 SF for the ride in the cable car.

When To Climb

The end of June, July, August and first in September. In the rest of the year the exposed rocks are covered with ice and snow.

Or you can put it the opposite way:
All seasons are good except there are usally large crowds about the peak in late July and August.

Camping

In Zermatt, Cervinia and Ayas you will find any kind of accomodation you search for.

Just a few examples:

Riffelalp Resort 2222m
Zermatt

Hotel Hermitage
Cervinia

Hotellerie de Mascognaz
Champoluc

Camping Glair
Valtournenche


MOUNTAIN HUTS & BIVOUACS
 
Mezzalama refuge
RIFUGIO MEZZALAMA

Gandegghütte (3030 m)
Private
Tel.: +41 (0)79 607 88 68

Rifugio Guide Val d'Ayas (3420 m)
Società Guide Val d'Ayas
Tel.: +39 0125 30 80 83

Rifugio Mezzalama (3036 m)
CAI Torino
Tel. +39 0125 30 72 26

Rifugio Teodulo (3327 m)
CAI Torino
Tel.: +39 0166 94 94 00

Monte Rosa Hütte (2883 m)
SAC Monte Rosa
Tel.: +41 (0)27 966 01 01

Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 m)
CAI Biella
Tel.: +39 0125 36 61 13

Bivacco Rossi e Volante (3750 m)
CAI UGET Torino

Mountain Conditions

Web-cam for the area:
Breithorn-Matterhorn

WEATHER-REPORT:
Alpenverein
SLF
Phone from abroad: ++411162
Zermatt-Weather


All kind of information:
Zermatt
Alagna




The myth of Pollux and Castor

The Myths and Legends of the Dioscuri, Twin sons of Jupiter, Castor and Pollux. Go here:

Maps and books

Schweizer Landeskarten:
1:25000 no. 1348 Zermatt
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
1:50000 no. 284 Mischabel
1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney
(to order at DAV Service)

BOOKS

Hermann Biner, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass. 2nd ed. 1996.
ISBN 3-859022-160-5

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. 1994.
(to order at amazon.com)
ISBN 0898863783

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2

Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-7633-2416-X

Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
ISBN 3-7654-2124-3

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
dmikiUntitled Comment

dmiki

Hasn't voted

Maybe there`s some interesting / useful information in here related to this (and your other) mountains:





Trofeo Mezzalama


http://www.trofeomezzalama.org/home_en.asp


http://www.trofeomezzalama.org/images/mappa.jpg


http://www.euroski-on-line.com/strdex.htm


http://www.euroski-on-line.com/193sto.htm


Posted Dec 3, 2005 2:03 am
GarfieldUntitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Photo
Posted Dec 13, 2005 2:43 am
asWrong Coordinates

as

Hasn't voted

The correct coordinates are Latitude=45.92781 Longitude=7.78508
Posted Sep 16, 2008 7:25 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

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