A classic 4.000 meter-mountain in the "Mekka-area" between Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. Pollux is the lower peak of the Twins (zwillinge). The other is Castor which is higher but less demanding. Pollux has some parts with climbing at 2+ or PD where the climb is exposed.
In the highseason in July and August 10-30 climbers will reach it on a normal day.
First climbed in 1864 by Peter Taugwalder senior and Jules Jacot.
Getting ThereFrom Zermatt take the cableway to Kleine Matterhorn - 3820m. From here it takes two hours nice walking on the glacier in south-east direction before the 90 minutes climb begin with a 50 degree snow slope to the top.
Can also be reached from the Monte Rosa-hutte using the same route as Castor, except one either goes up the rock wall to the top, or move over to the north ridge and up the firm to the top.
An alternative is the Italian way from Mezzalama Hut.
Red TapeNo red tape. Except the 60 SF for the ride in the cable car.
When To ClimbThe end of June, July, August and first in September. In the rest of the year the exposed rocks are covered with ice and snow.
Or you can put it the opposite way:
All seasons are good except there are usally large crowds about the peak in late July and August.
CampingIn Zermatt, Cervinia and Ayas you will find any kind of accomodation you search for.
Just a few examples:
Riffelalp Resort 2222m
Hotellerie de Mascognaz
MOUNTAIN HUTS & BIVOUACS
Gandegghütte (3030 m)
Tel.: +41 (0)79 607 88 68
Rifugio Guide Val d'Ayas (3420 m)
Società Guide Val d'Ayas
Tel.: +39 0125 30 80 83
Rifugio Mezzalama (3036 m)
Tel. +39 0125 30 72 26
Rifugio Teodulo (3327 m)
Tel.: +39 0166 94 94 00
Monte Rosa Hütte (2883 m)
SAC Monte Rosa
Tel.: +41 (0)27 966 01 01
Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 m)
Tel.: +39 0125 36 61 13
Bivacco Rossi e Volante (3750 m)
CAI UGET Torino
Mountain ConditionsWeb-cam for the area:
Phone from abroad: ++411162
All kind of information:
The myth of Pollux and CastorThe Myths and Legends of the Dioscuri, Twin sons of Jupiter, Castor and Pollux. Go here:
Maps and booksSchweizer Landeskarten:
1:25000 no. 1348 Zermatt
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
1:50000 no. 284 Mischabel
1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney
(to order at DAV Service)
Hermann Biner, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass. 2nd ed. 1996.
Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. 1994.
(to order at amazon.com)
Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999.
Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
- Trip report Pollux N ridge (german only)
- Pollux at www.4000er.de
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