Sentinel Buttress

Overview

This route is on the west side of the knob, with all the other climbs. This is the standard route to access the Crow's Nest on Sentinel Buttress Wall, which then leads to the left climb "Zoo View" (5.7+) or to the right to climb Pitch 2 of Sentinel Buttress.

These routes can be found in either Kelley's "Climber's Guide to NC" (if you can find it, out of print) or Lambert & Shull's "Selected Climbs in NC". Hope these more detailed route descriptions will help, especially in finding the often well-concealed rap anchors at Moore's.

Getting There

The parking situation for climbing at Moore's Wall was recently upgraded, now includes a toilet! To get there from Hwy 52, take Exit 122 (Moore-RJR Drive), turn left after the ramp and head east for 4 miles. Turn left onto NC 66 at the gas station, and follow for 6.8 miles. Turn right onto Moore's Spring Rd for 0.5 miles, then turn right onto Mickey Rd for 0.8 miles. Turn right onto Charlie Young Rd for 0.6 miles, and turn right at the end of the road onto the gravel Hooker Farm Rd. Continue uphill for 0.5 miles, and turn right at Climber's Access Rd. This is the climber's parking lot (GPS coords 36.399687°, -80.290836°).

From here take the trail uphill for about 10 minutes, until you reach an old jeep trail. Turn left up the jeep trail until you reach a sign on the right pointing out a trail. This one will lead up the hill (stay to the left on the trail) to the start of Sentinel Butress or just left of it. If you continue on the jeep trail another 100 yds or so, a second trail on the right will lead to the left side of Moore's Wall, just under "Wailing Wall". The total hiking time is not over 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Route Description

The first pitch of Sentinel Buttress starts at the top of a large ledge, at the bottom of a dirty gully. Climb the easy face with lots of variations to a dead tree hanging off the ledge 80 ft above (Crow's Nest). It is a casual climb with lots of gear thoughout. The top will have 2 slings with rap rings. This is also the rappel route from Pitch 2 as well as "Air Show" and "Zoo View", so watch out for traffic.

The second pitch starts at the right-most side of the Crow's Nest ledge, bascially following a crack/dihedral system to the next ledge, 110 ft straight up. Lots of good gear here as well, offering very different climbing surfaces. Top out at the next ledge, and set up a belay in the cracks behind the tree. Do not use that tree, it hasn't been rooted for years.

The descent anchor can be a little hard to find at first, as it is over the ledge just left of where you climbed. It is a strange looking but bomber pulley with rap rings. If you can't find it, walk climber's left along the ledge and look over the edge. It will be there. Rap back down to the Crow's Nest, and the second rappel is from the sling anchors at the end of the first pitch.

Essential Gear

Standard NC trad rack with cams up to 2", and full set of nuts. I've climbed it with ice, and don't recommend it.

Images

View Sentinel Buttress Image Gallery - 2 Images