Start EARLY to avoid being delayed behind other parties.
Alpine meadow / cirque below South Face is visible from highway pullout. Small cairn marks trailhead at treeline north of hwy just across from start of southside guardrail. Trail across little creeks is very brushy, trail thru meadow and up into cirque is very well travelled and clear.
From top of cirque below south face, ascend northern-most gully to the notch on the crest of SE Arm. Climb out of notch begins with 5.7 move but gets easier soon. Start Variation: approach gulley widens 50 meters before notch. from this point you can see rappell anchor (double rope) on tree root at crest of ridge to left of notch. You may skip the first pitch by climbing directly to this anchor (5.2) .
Simul-climb or solo several rope lengths of class 3-4 with many sandy ledges (some very short class 5 steps). Keep to the crest of the ridge, or just to the east.
When you come to more difficult steps, 5.6 +, these are never longer than half a rope, and easy to protect .
Above you is a distinctive light-colored 'rampart' with roofs. You will pass close under this feature to the left. and one more pitch will bring you just below the two humps.
Passing between the two humps, you cross two 'notches' and have one short pitch of 5.8 before the easy scramble to the summit.
Descent: descend the route in series of single rope rappells. Anchors in place on trees, but do carry adequate slings. Avoid downclimbing approach gully (dangerous) by one double-rope rappell from just above the notch. then more single-rope raps and downclimbing slabs to left of gully .
Medium alpine rack: one set nuts, cams up to #3, set tri-cams.
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