Welcome to SP!  -
South Crack
Route

South Crack

 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.84000°N / 119.46°W

Object Title: South Crack

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.8

Number of Pitches: 5

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 12 Votes
 

 

Page By: Steve Larson

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2005 / Feb 17, 2006

Object ID: 166750

Hits: 2464 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Approach

About 100 feet left of the obvious Great White Book is a somewhat broken area above a large shrub-covered ledge. Climb up third class slabs from the roadside to this ledge and rope up.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb a tall flake/crack to near its top, then traverse right (5.8) about 6 feet to the base of "South Crack". Follow the crack (a bit of 5.8 near the top) to a belay at a fixed pin.

Pitch 2: Climb a short friction slab up and left (5.7) to the base of another crack.. Follow the crack (5.7-5.8-ish) to a ledge 100 feet up.

Pitch 3: Continue following the crack (5.5 or less) another 100 feet almost to its end. This pitch can easily be linked with the previous one.

Pitch 4: Climb runout friction slabs (5.6) about 60 feet up and left towards the base of a small right-facing dihedral that arches up and left across the face above the belay. Follow the dihedral about 15-20 feet to a small ledge on its crest, then continue up and somewhat left another 20-30 feet on runout friction (5.7) to a great ledge. besure to place two or three pieces in the crack before launching into the second slab; it's a long way to slide! Despite the runout factor, this pitch is pretty easy. There is nothing tricky about it, just smear your feet on whatever little edges or pockets you can find, and trust your feet.

Pitch 5: Start by traversing about 30 feet left towards a useless crack, then turn upwards and follow discontinuous useless cracks about 140 feet to a two-bolt belay. It is possible to slot a small cam in a pocket just before reaching the belay. Whatever. The climbing is never harder than 5.2, if that.

Pitch 6: Yet another short friction slab (5.7) is encountered, followed by fun and easy (no harder than 5.5) climbing up flakes and a right-facing corner. about 50-60 feet up there is a bit of a break in the corner. surmount the wall and follow a crack to a ledge 150 feet above the belay.

Essential Gear

1 set of nuts, double cams to 2", single to 3"

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

South Crack, Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack, Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack, Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack, Stately Pleasure DomeSouth Crack, Stately Pleasure DomeLooking south toward the...South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome
South Crack, first pitchSouth CrackSouth CrackPitch 1