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West Country
Route

West Country

 
West Country

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.84000°N / 119.46°W

Object Title: West Country

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: Steve Larson

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2005 / Feb 17, 2006

Object ID: 166748

Hits: 2279 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Approach

Scramble up third class slabs from the roadside at the base of the dome towards a broken area beneath Hermaphrodite Flake, the obvious, large detached flake about 100 feet to the left of the even more obvious dihedral of the Great White Book. Most parties rope up at the large ledge at the base of a big right-facing dihedral.

Route Description

Pitch 1: There are several options for the first pitch, all easy in the beginning, and all converging on a short 5.7 jam crack that surmounts the left side of a large left-facing dihedral. If you find yourself struggling with a roof blocking further upward progress, you’ve gone too far! Back down a bit and look for a hand crack diagonaling up and left out of the corner. A couple of 5.7-ish moves lead to a short friction slab and the spacious belay ledge at the base of the second pitch.

Pitch 2 (crux): Ascend the obvious left-facing dihedral to its end. A bolted belay stance is found a few yards beyond. The dihedral protects well, but the crack in the corner becomes less and less receptive to fingers as it curves right about 50 feet above the belay. Never fear, the feet are always good, and there is a big jug at the corner where the dihedral makes a sharp turn straight up.

Pitch 3: Follow sporadic bolts to another bolted belay ledge 15-20 feet left of the bottom of an obvious right-facing dihedral.

Pitch 4: Traverse across to the dihedral and follow it to the top.

Essential Gear

1 set of nuts, cams 0.5 – 3”

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Taken from the last belay,...Misha coming around the crux...Second pitch of West CountryThe crux on the second pitch... West Crack (5.7) and...second pitchLooking up from the first...