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South East Arete

South East Arete

South East Arete

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: South East Arete

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 5

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: glahhg

Created/Edited: Jul 18, 2008 / Jul 18, 2008

Object ID: 422311

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This route ascends the prominent arete on the right side of the Southeast face of the Cleaver, just left of the giant split in the mountain.

FA Scotty Nelson and Nate Ricklin 7/11/2008

South East Arete of The Cleaver
The line of the SE Arete is shown in red.

Getting There

See info for The Cleaver.

Route Description

Start in the gully on the right-hand side of the face. A big chockstone near the bottom of the gully is a good place to rope up.

P1-P2) Pull over the chockstone and climb up the left side of the gully, skirting around the right side and to the top of the prominent white pillar, to a large ledge. (4th and easy 5th class)

P3-P5) Climb the arete for three pitches following cracks on the left side (5.7) to the summit ridge.

Scotty following pitch 4
Following the 4th pitch of the SE Arete

Essential Gear

Standard Sierra rock rack.


After tagging the summit, scramble down the backside of the face northeastward to Tulainyo Lake. Descend Cleaver Col.

Scrambling down from the summit of the Cleaver
Descending from the summit

External Links

Trip Report and Photos


Scrambling down from the summit of the CleaverPitch 3 of the South East Arete of the CleaverScotty following pitch 4On the upper part of the SE Arete of the CleaverSouth East Arete of The CleaverNate leading pitch 4 on the South East Arete of the Cleaver