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South-Est wall - Molteni route
Route

South-Est wall - Molteni route

 
South-Est wall - Molteni route

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.29480°N / 9.58610°E

Object Title: South-Est wall - Molteni route

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: D+

Number of Pitches: 14

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Lorenz

Created/Edited: Jun 13, 2007 / Jul 11, 2007

Object ID: 301137

Hits: 4278 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

This was the first route traced on the South-East wall of Pizzo Badile. It was opened by M. Molteni and M. Camporini (16 and 17 August 1935) with a lot of alpinistic intuition. It goes in the middle of the wall in the lower part and then traverses towards West to reach the beautiful spur that leads right at the summit.
This is a very classic and beautiful route, not really hard, climbed by many people every year.

Approach

The approach is in common with the normal route and start from Bagni di Masino (1172m) to reach the Gianetti hutte (2534m) in about 3 hours.
 
South-Est wall of Pizzo Badile
This is just underneath the S-E wall almost at the start of Molteni route

short video of arrival on top of Pizzo Badile from Molteni route

Route Description

From the refuge one goes towards North-East to reach the amphitheater between the Piz Badile S-E wall and the Punta Sertori (1h).
The route starts in the center of the wall underneath two very left-oblique dihedral. The route follows some dihedrals and slabs traversing on the left until reaching the famous traverse with fixed rope.
A couple of more pitches take to the evident spur that in three beautiful pitches takes directly at the small hut on top of Pizzo Badile.

Of course, you need a topo if you want to climb it.

Descent is via normal route with a series of rappels.
 
traverse of Molteni route
On the famous traverse with fixed rope
 
final pitches of Molteni route
On the final pitches

short video of the fixed rope traverse

Essential Gear

two ropes, a set of cams and stoppers. The route is equipped with few old but good pitons as well as some brand new bolt at belays.

External Links

more picures and video here on Climberland

Images

traverse of Molteni routefinal pitches of Molteni routeSouth-Est wall of Pizzo Badilefinal pitches of Molteni route