OverviewThis was the first route traced on the South-East wall of Pizzo Badile. It was opened by M. Molteni and M. Camporini (16 and 17 August 1935) with a lot of alpinistic intuition. It goes in the middle of the wall in the lower part and then traverses towards West to reach the beautiful spur that leads right at the summit.
This is a very classic and beautiful route, not really hard, climbed by many people every year.
ApproachThe approach is in common with the normal route and start from Bagni di Masino (1172m) to reach the Gianetti hutte (2534m) in about 3 hours.
short video of arrival on top of Pizzo Badile from Molteni route
Route DescriptionFrom the refuge one goes towards North-East to reach the amphitheater between the Piz Badile S-E wall and the Punta Sertori (1h).
The route starts in the center of the wall underneath two very left-oblique dihedral. The route follows some dihedrals and slabs traversing on the left until reaching the famous traverse with fixed rope.
A couple of more pitches take to the evident spur that in three beautiful pitches takes directly at the small hut on top of Pizzo Badile.
Of course, you need a topo if you want to climb it.
Descent is via normal route with a series of rappels.
short video of the fixed rope traverse