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South face - Häberlein route (Droga Haberlaina)
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South face - Häberlein route (Droga Haberlaina)

 
South face - Häberlein route (Droga Haberlaina)

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: South face - Häberlein route (Droga Haberlaina)

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: IV, trad climbing in medium quality rock

Number of Pitches: 7

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: KRZYS

Created/Edited: Jan 24, 2010 / May 28, 2011

Object ID: 591768

Hits: 1906 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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History

Simply - pretty route with great history. First time conquered by German alpinists: Simon Häberlein and his partners - Katherine and Maximilian Bröske in 1905. S.Häberlein was a true revelation. In a few days which he spend in Tatra Mountains, he did:
-first ascent of Ostry Stit south face
-first conquest of Zabi Kon
-first ascent of Zabia Turnia Mieguszowiecka
-first conquest of Chlopek
So… his route on Ostry Sit south face by a many years was considered for the hardest in Tatras. On this route died a few polish alpinists - in 1928 Jadwiga Honowska and Zofia Krókowska and in 1930 famous Kazimierz Kupczyk. Remember about it, when you will do this route.

Overview

However, today it’s an easy (IV) and quite popular climbing route on Ostry Stit, with lot of variants. This is a good lesson of protection and thinking in mountains. A bit exposed, give a nice impressions from trad climbing. Good choice on interesting day in a little “Eldorado” of trad climbing.
Haberlain Route
Ostry Szczyt south face with Haberlain route

Route Description

Approach - it can be one day trip, even if you start from Smokovec. 45min asphalt route to the Hrebieniok (1285m). Now 2h by trial in Velka Studena Valley to the Zbojnicka Chata(1960m) (hut). Next via trial on Czerwona Lawka (pass), and when trial turn on Czerwna Lawka direction, we go out from it, turning to the Strzeleckie Pola(2200), under Ostry Szczyt south face. 1h
Route begin
Start


The route starts in shallow gully among white rocks (look photo). Few meters up by gully, and next via easy steps, right on a little pass. From here, or up (Haberlain variant, IV), or to the right by exposed wall (old piton, IV). Now via easier steps to the “Lower lawns”. Next by grass and rocks to start of famous 50m Haberlain’s Crack. 30m by the crack, and to when the Crack overhanging. Then avoid overhang, easy but exposed rocks to the “Higher lawns”. After it, left by grass to gully and on the pass in summit ridge. To the left, 25m by comfortable ridge to the summit. 2h30min

Essential Gear

There are some old pitons in route, but surely they aren’t trustworthy too much.
-harness
-rope (50m enough)
-protection (rappel) device
-nuts set
-pitons and hammer
-12 quickdraws
-helmet
 
Our eq mix
Our gear

Guidebooks

-tatry.nfo
-Witold Herman Paryski's "Tatry Wysokie" guidebook
-"Najpiekniejsze szczyty Tatr" ("The most beautiful summits of Tatras") - Janusz Kurczab

Landscapes

Haberlain route is well-known from interesting views on Tatra's summits and neighboring valleys.
Prostredny Hrot & Velka Studena Valley
Prostredny Hrot
 
Slawkowski Szczyt from Ostry Szczyt
Slavkovsky Stit
 
Lodowa Pass and Lodowa Kopa
Lodowa Pass

Images

Haberlain RouteProstredny Hrot & Velka Studena ValleyLodowa Pass and Lodowa KopaRoute beginOur eq mixSlawkowski Szczyt from Ostry Szczyt