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Ostry Stit
Mountain/Rock

Ostry Stit

 
Ostry Stit

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Ostry Stit

Elevation: 7729 ft / 2356 m

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Nov 23, 2005 / Nov 29, 2005

Object ID: 155037

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Overview



At first sight Ostrý Štit / Ostry Szczyt is inconspicuous and your sight goes to its neighbours: Široká Veža / Mały Lodowy Szczyt, Javorový Štit / Jaworowy Szczyt or Prostredný Hrot / Pośrednia Grań. When you look from the north side it seems by L’adový Štit / Lodowy Szczyt on the east and a huge wall of Javorový Štit massif on the west only of a little pyramidal crag in the main ridge of Tatra Mountains. But it is the one of the most precipitous and difficult summits in High Tatra – all routes are available only for climbers (the easiest route has II grade in UIAA scale). For that reason it was the longest conquer summit on the turn of XIX and XX century, when they “discover” Tatar Mountains for tourism. In Zakopane they made book on who reaches the top as the first and was considered as the most difficult in the whole Tatra.


Ostrý Štit seen from Zbojnicka Chata

It is a very interesting summit for “average” climbers. It offers plenty of easy routes, from II to V, but you can find here only one route for graduates (“Ostra realita” UIAA VIII-) and with the nearby south wall of Široká Veža makes an eldorado for climbers.

It ascends between Vel’ká Studená / Staroleśna Valley (south) and Zadná Javorová / Zadnia Jaworowa Valley (north) and is separated from Široká Veža by Biela Lávka / Biała Ławka and from Javorový Štit by Javorové Sedlo / Jaworowa Przełęcz. In the west ridge of Ostrý Štit rises its smaller brother - Malý Ostrý Štit separated by Prielom v Ostrom / Przełęcz w Ostrym.

The Slovakian and Polish name means “sharp, pointed summit” and comes from its shape, especially when you look from the east direction.


First ascend



Antonina Englisch with his son Karol Englisch and guides Johann Hunsdorfer senior and Johann Strompf reached the summit as the first in 1902 year, after a few unsuccessful attempts, by the north wall. This three of them reached already a few another peaks and new routs as the first in Tatra Mountains, too.
In winter the first ascend belongs to Alfred Grosz and Gyula Komarnicki (1911) by the east ridge.

Summit view


Summit view is a little limited in the east direction by Široká Veža and in the west by Javorový Štit. But I think it is interesting, especialy in Prostredný Hrot direction. Have a look youself!

Getting There



FROM SLOVAKIAN SIDE:

The major city in this area is Poprad, where you can get by bus or train. From Poprad there is a lot of buses and trains to Starý Smokovec (13km) at the foot of Tatra:
train time table
bus time table
train time table from Poprad to Starý Smokovec Tatranská elektrická železnica

Maps of Starý Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica

FROM POLISH SIDE:

The best point to stars the journey is Zakopane – the biggest town on Polish side of Tatra Mountains. You can get there from Kraków by bus (most recommended), car or train:
By bus: there are a lot of buses from Kraków to Zakopane - time table of PKS and private lines Frey and Szwagropol.
By train: the road is much longer and dearer than by bus - time table from Kraków 0.00-11.59 a.m., 12.00-11.59 p.m. and from Zakopane.
By car: from Kraków take a road number 7 to Chyżne and follow it to Rabka. Here this road turn right to Chyżne, but you follow still straight a head in south direction by road number 95. In Poronin 5 km before Zakopane turn left (east) to border crossing point in Łysa Polana.

From Zakopane: Take a bus to Polana Palenica (time table of PKS, in high season there are a lot of private buses, too – a station is opposite to PKS) and get off in Łysa Polana / Lysá Pol’ana (Attention! private buses sometimes has a direction-board “Morskie Oko”). Cross the polish-slovakian border . Bus station on Slovakian side is about 100m after border crossing point on the right. Take a bus to Poprad, which goes through Starý Smokovec (time table).

IN MOUNTAIN:

Approach to Zbojnicka Chata:
From Stary Smokovec follow green marked trail to Hrebienok / Siodelko (you can take there cable railway (“lanovka”) – (time table ) – 1 h 15 min. Next follow red marked trail in Skalnata Chata direction and after about 15 min turn left on blue-marked trail, leading to Zbojnicka Chata (2 h 30 min).


Routes overview


CLIMBINGS ROUTES:

South wall:
general TOPO
Approach: from Zbojnicka Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to Strelecké Polia / Strzeleckie Pola - the highest part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. When you pass on your right hand a top of Strelecká Veža you have the south wall of Ostrý Štit on your left hand in the north direction.
1. Motykova cesta (IV) 3h.
2. Šwierzov komín (II-III) 1,5h.
3. Häberleinova cesta (III-IV) 2h.
4. Cesta Spišských vodcov (III) 2h.
5. Došek - Komárek (IV) 2,5h. TOPO
6. Petráň - Charvátová (IV) ?h. TOPO
7. Jurzycova cesta (II-III) ?h.
8. Ostrá realita (VIII-) 3h. TOPO

South-west wall:
general TOPO and general VIEW
Approach: from Zbojnicka Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to Sivé Plesa / Siwe Stawy (Lakes). Now you have the south-west wall of Ostrý Štit on your left hand in the north direction.
1. Stejskal-Gross-Páleníček (V,A2) 10h. TOPO
2. Kučera-Oružinský "Jaskynky" (V) 3h.
3. Zamkovského komín (V) 4h.
4. Variant ľavou hornou časťou steny (V-VI) 4h.
5. Žlté nebezpečenstvo (V) 1h. TOPO
6. Ostrie JZ piliera (V) TOPO

Route of rappel from the top by the south wall (on Strelecké Polia / Strzeleckie Pola - the upper part of Vel’ká Studená Valley).

Maps




Map of Ostrý Štit’ area

Tatry Wysokie, in scale 1:25 000, description in 6 languages, ISBN 83-87873-26-8, available in all shops in Zakopane. Here you can look at net version.
A high quality maps in scales 1:25 000 and 1:50 000 are produced VKU Harmanec, too. They are available at all chalets and shops in cities under Vysoke Tatry.


When To Climb


The best time is a summer and early autumn (June - October). But if you like to climbe in winter the best time for you is between jannuary and april.

Red Tape



The “High Tatra” is a National park, UN Bioheritage area and a European BioHeritage - if you are not a member of any climbing club you can move only on marked trails - so you can visit Ostrý Štit only with Tatra guide.

In winter time (from November the 1st – June the 15th) The Tatra Mountains in Slovakian part are closed for normal tourists (not for climbers). In Polish part you can move the whole of year.

For more informations look at High Tatra/Vysoke Tatry GROUP page.
For climbing regulations look at
Gerlachovsky Stit page.


Accommodation



There is only one chalet near by Ostrý Štit:

Zbojnicka Chata situated in upper part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. Chalet is opened all the year for hiking, climbing and ski mountaineering.
Access from:
1. Starý Smokovec – green/red/blue-marked trail, 3 h 45 min
2. Hrebienok – red/blue-marked trail, 2 h 45 min
3. Teryho Chata – yellow-marked trail (3 h)
4. Lysa Pol’ana – blue-marked trail (6 h 15min)
Contact:
adres: Zbojnícka chata, 062 01 Starý Smokovec, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakia
mail: info@zbojnickachata.sk
telephone: ++421 903 638 000 or +421 903 619 000

Absolutely no camping is permitted in the nature park. The nearest camping in Slovakian side is in Stara Lesna and Tatranska Lomnica.

There are plenty of cheap hotels and pensions in the area of Stary Smokovec and Štrbské Pleso: accommodation


Mountain Conditions



Web forecast:
situation at this moment and forecast

Information of avalanche danger:
TOPR (in English) and HZS

Rescue:
On Slovakian side acts HZS (Horska Zachranna Sluzba)
Starý Smokovec 23, 059 60 Vysoké Tatry
phon.: 052/4422820, fax: 052/4422855,
mobil: 0903624869
e-mail: vtatry@hzs.sk
www.hzs.sk


Images