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South Face
Route

South Face

 
South Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Snowdonia, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 52.84073°N / 3.99508°W

Object Title: South Face

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Scrambling to Grade 3 but with much scope for variation

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Aug 4, 2009 / Apr 15, 2011

Object ID: 536999

Hits: 1330 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview



Although the compact gritstone buttresses of the Rhinogydd offer plenty for the able rock climber, the discontinuous nature of their crags means that longer routes are few in number. This, combined with typically Spartan facets of said crags, means that long routes of an amenable grade are even fewer. There are however, maybe a handful of exceptions, and one such exception is the South Face of Rhinog Fawr. On first appearance this too appears too broken to yield anything of substance, but if you look for it, a perhaps somewhat artificial route can be made out by following a series of crags and boulders which rise from the narrowest point of Cwm Nantcol to the mountain’s western fore-summit. The route has the honour of being the range’s only true scramble, and weighs in at a respectable Grade 3.

For the most part the scrambling is fairly sustained, and only really suffers when crossing the wide slabby plateau that links the lower tiers with the final push to the summit. This however, can be easily forgiven, as the spectacular landscape it places you in is unique to this part of Wales, perhaps even, to the world. The rock is of mostly excellent quality and benefits from the friction one would normally expect from a lithology of this type. Despite this, care should be taken in places, as loose stones and boulders may spell trouble for anyone below you.

Rhinogydd
The northern Rhinogydd
(Photo by Nanuls)
LLyn Du
Llyn Du
(Photo by Nanuls)
Rhinog Fach
Rhinog Fach
(Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

The start of the approach is located in part of Coed-y-Brenin Forest at the Graigddu-Isaf (SH 680 300) car park on the eastern side of Rhinog Fawr. To get there turn off the A470 at a very small junction (SH SH 711 307) just south of Bronaber. The junction is small and easily missed, extenuated by the fact that the road has numerous similar small exits, is very straight, and consequently, very fast. On turning off you’ll be immediately greeted by a gate across the road, go through this making sure you close the gate behind you. Drive along the road for around 3km until it terminates at the car park, just inside the forest.

Route Description

The Approach

 
Rhinogydd
Rhinog Fach (left) and Rhinog Fawr (right) from the car park (Photo by Nanuls)

Leave the carpark along the forestry track that continues the natural course of the road westward. After a couple of minutes walking you will be diverted off the track along a wet, vegetated, and winding path through felled trees. The deepest gullies have had plastic pipes placed in them which can be used as ‘stepping stones’. Providing you manage to reach the other side without succumbing to the bog, you will exit onto a forestry track that fronts Graigddu-Isaf Farm (SH 680 300). Turn left and walk along the track in a southerly direction. After a few hundred metres, you will pass the junction for Bwlch Tyddiad. Here there is a sign post, one sign points up a small path to Bwlch Tyddiad and the Roman Steps, the other points along the track you are already on, towards Bwlch Drws Ardudwy and Cwm Nantcol. Continue along the track towards Bwlch Drws Ardudwy.

After around a kilometre of walking you will reach a hairpin bend, which crosses a stream at its apex (SH 673 286). Just before the apex, a small path, which is notified by a yellow arrowed signpost used to denote public rights of way, leaves the track in a south-westerly direction. Exit the forestry track and follow the smaller path to the end of the forest (SH 670 285).

Here the landscape opens up, with Rhinog Fach to your left and Rhinog Fawr to your right. Bwlch Drws Ardudwy lies directly before you. Continue along the path towards the apex of the col, which is marked by a medium sized cairn (SH 664 282); the route begins some 300 metres further on, where the pass is at its narrowest. There is a significant wall running along the southern side of the path, and the exact start of the route begins at where an indistinct ruined wall, which runs up towards Rhinog Fawr, meets this.

The Route

 
Rhinog Fawr
The start of the route (Photo by Nanuls)

From your position at the wall junction you will now be able to see a series of tiered crags above you; it is these that the route climbs. Save yourself the arduous task of battling through heather by beginning the route on top of the remnants of the ruined wall which soon becomes lost in the boulder field above it. Work your way through the boulder field towards the first tier, again the boulders prove easier going than the heather around them. The boulders vary in size and shape, and micro scrambles can be found if you have time to play. The end of the boulder field is marked by a large boulder of around 3 metres height, which sits on a grassy terrace, and is backed by the steep crags of the First Tier. Make your way left, past the boulder to where the crag becomes more gradual and broken.

Climb this to a small heather terrace and a large hanging block. Skirt around the block to the crags behnied and climb a series of ledges up steep cracked walls to another wide heather terrace. The crags of the Second Tier are now directly in front of you.

The most obvious feature of this section of crags is a large patch of ivy near its centre, to the right of which is a small tree. Below the small tree is the start of a rightward slanting break which cuts through the full length of the crag. Awkward moves up this will take you to the top of the crag and another heather terrace. An alternative to the break for the bold and the roped is a series of steep steps to its right.
Rhinog Fawr
The First Tier
(Photo by Nanuls)
Rhinog Fawr
The Second Tier
(Photo by Nanuls)
Rhinog Fawr
The Third Tier
(Photo by Nanuls)

On this terrace stands the Third Tier of crags, which are split by an obvious gully just to the left of its highest section. Climb the steep rock to its left up steps to a ledge at about half height. Move rightwards below a steep wall, and where this ends, climb another few metres to another ledge. Sidle right to a recess and climb a slab to the right again, here the gradient eases, allowing you to survey the rest of the route.
 
Rhinog Fawr
The fore-summit
(Photo by Nanuls)

At the top of the third tier you will be greeted with a wide, and relatively level, eastward arching ridge. Much of this is covered by flat, clean slabs of rock, which provide a much easier approach to the next section of scrambling than the heather that occupies the remainder of the ridge. Ahead of you lies the fore-summit (SH 660 289) of Rhinog Fawr, an appealing mass of broken cragletts and boulders. The most obvious feature of this section is a large discontinuous gully that runs up its centre, with the rock to its left offering the most continuous scrambling.

Climb the slabs, taking care in places, as loose rock on this section can prove a hazard. This section offers an almost unlimited number of variations and alternatives, giving the route high level of repeatability. Where the gully narrows and steepens, move right underneath it to a grassy terrace on the opposite side. Traverse around the base of the crag and ascend a leftward trending break to the top of the fore-summit. From here the summit proper of Rhinog Fawr (SH 656 290) is just a short walk away and is marked by that quintessential sign of a high point, the trig pillar.
 
Rhinog Fawr
Llyn Du (Photo by Nanuls)

The Descent


A choice of descents now presents itself. The most natural continuation is to descend along the braided paths of Rhinog Fawr’s north-western flank to Llyn Du (SH 655 294), and then to make your way around the northern side of this to its outflow. Then follow a path that runs back down the mountain in a north-easterly direction to the forest. The forest is entered via a ‘kissing gate’ and an obvious, if occasionally boggy, path takes you back to the forestry track on which you began your journey.

Essential Gear

The bold probably won't feel the need for a rope and all its associated paraphernalia, however if you do want to use such gear, a single 50m rope will be fine, a small rack of nuts and hexes, and a few slings and screwgates will suffice. The route can be done in mountain boots or rock shoes, although boots are probably more advantageous considering the broken nature of the climb. Naturally you will also need all the other bits and pieces normally associated with hill walking in Wales: full waterproofs, fleece, hat, gloves and of course some lunch.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 18 Harlech, Porthmadog & Bala/Y Bala
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 124 Porthmadog & Dolgellau

Road Maps

OS Travel Map Great Britain 2009
OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia by John Sparks, Tom Hutton and Gerry Rawson

An excellent and well illustrated guide, which neatly links scrambling with rock climbing and in doing so, covers some of the best long routes in Snowdonia. It contains within in it descriptions and illustrations for this route.
Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd by Martin Crocker, John Sumner, Terry Taylor, Elfyn Jones, with contributions from Mike Rosser, Mike Lewis and Dave Wrennall

The definitive climbing guide to the area. Contains detailed descriptions and excellent diagrams of all known rock routes in the Rhinogydd, although it does not describe this scramble. An essential purchase if you plan to do a lot of climbing in Mid Wales.

External Links

 
Rhinog Fach
Rhinog Fach from Cwm Nantcol (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Cwm Nantcol
Cwm Nantcol (Photo by Nanuls)
General

Snowdonia National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Conwy County Council
Gwynedd County Council
Powys County Council
Welsh Tourist Board
Mid Wales Tourism Partnership
Snowdonia Society
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index
Snowdonia-Active.com
Countryside Council for Wales
Craig yr Aderyn Special Protection Area Core Management Plan and Unit Map
Joint Nature Conservation Committee
The National Trust
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archaeological Trust
British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
Hightreck Snowdonia

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
Weather Channel UK

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Harvey Map Services
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images

Rhinog FawrRhinog FawrRhinog FawrRhinog FawrRhinog FachBwlch Drws ArdudwyRhinog Fawr
Cwm NantcolRhinog FawrRhinog FawrRhinog FawrRhinogyddCwm NantcolRhinog Fawr