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South Gulley Direct
Route

South Gulley Direct

 
South Gulley Direct

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Title: South Gulley Direct

Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: III AI2+ M3

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Martin Cash

Created/Edited: Jan 14, 2007 / Jan 15, 2007

Object ID: 260526

Hits: 4253 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

 
Looking Up
Looking Up


This route report describes a winter ascent of the South Gulley of Guye Peak, taking a direct line through the mixed bands to reach the false summit. While the difficulties can be passed by traversing to the right, the direct version is a much more interesting climb.

Getting There

 
West Face
West Face


Drive to Snoqualmie Pass and follow the signs to Alpental Road. Drive down and park in the lower lot. Hike back down the road then turn left at the second residential road and proceed to the end. Now hike to the east towards the southwest corner of Guye, then traverse up and to the right to reach the southside. Keep traversing beyond a rock band and climb the major gulley to its right.

Route Description

 
Lower
 
 
Chimney Pitch
 
 
Traverse
 


Start by climbing up the initial gulley on 40 degree snow, until it branches about 300 foot up. We took the right hand option, left looks hard. Rope up here and belay a pitch of steep alpine ice, with mixed rock and snow. Bring knifeblades and small nuts for protection. Do not traverse out to the right here. Above this we simulclimbed several hundred feet of 40 degree snow and neve to reach a steep chimney pitch with ice in it. Belay this pitch, then simulclimb several hundred more feet to reach the false summit.

From the false summit, climb and traverse snowfields to reach the south summit. Drop down into the notch, then climb steep exposed snow to reach the middle (highest) summit. From here, drop down into the next notch, then perform one single rope rappel off the tree down and to your right. Now climb the steep couloir back up the other side to obtain the north summit. The descent off the north summit is nontechnical from here.

Essential Gear

2 tools or 1 axe and one third tool
Crampons
Knifeblade pitons
Small nuts and/or cams
60 meter rope
Lots of 48" slings or webbing for tree slinging

External Links

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Images

Sunrise on ChairValleyMixedWest FaceLooking UpChimney PitchMiddle Summit
MiddleLowerTraverse