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South Ridge

South Ridge

South Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.47830°N / 121.8442°W

Object Title: South Ridge

Route Type: Hike, scramble and technical climb.

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Easy hike on the approach, Class 4 or easy 5 scramble on the rock ridge, 5.easy on the summit chimney.

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: Brian Jenkins

Created/Edited: Aug 26, 2001 / Jan 5, 2006

Object ID: 155716

Hits: 11106 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Start from the Pacific Crest Trailhead described in the "Getting There" section. Hike about 3.7 miles north to the southern shoulder (Point 6961 on USGS map).

Route Description

Once you reach the southern shoulder, you will see an obvious climbers trail and pick it up within a half mile. This ascends a scree field in the summer, snow in winter. Once at the saddle, scramble up a loose ridge. About 200 feet below the summit, a gendarme blocks the way. This is "The Crawl" and a rope and some pro are recommended for the traverse on the east side of the gendarme as there is significant exposure. There are two fixed pins in this section. One about 20 feet into the Crawl under a small roof on your left. The second is 30 feet farther on the right outside edge just past the first technical move that you can actually clip before doing the move. There are also large blocks on either end of the Crawl you could sling for anchors (bring 20 foot slings or webbing). You could also sling some horns along the way with 6 foot runners if the pins aren't enough for you. At least one fatality has occurred here so be careful.

Continue scrambling to the summit pinnacle which is a shallow chimney. It's about a 20-25 foot technical climb of 5.easy quality. From the top of this climb you can scramble to the actual summit. Elevation gain is about 3000 feet and from the trailhead to summit is 5 miles.

Thanks to Cluck for additional beta for the route page.

Essential Gear

Slings/webbing as mentioned above for slinging horns/clipping fixed pins/etc. Nuts/chocks for the Chimney. Bring your brainbuckets, this heap is pure looseness (except the Crawl seems like pretty solid rock). I would suggest you rap off the summit block down the Chimney as the rock is not solid. The traverse is exposed class 4 or easy class 5 but the exposure is big.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Three Fingered JackClimbers on the summit block...The scree path...The sun was falling quickly...The crux move at the Crawl....David rapping from the...Going down
This is the anchor at the top...Almost thereThe cairn marking...