OverviewToti, although more beautiful when viewed from the east in the valley, it is most easily climbed from the west. To reach the summit, one must climb the glacier and then ascend the rocky summit. From the east there are at least two known routes to the summit: the easy normal route (described here) that climbs the south side of the rock to the summit and a more direct class 5 (YDS) climb on the northern side of the rock mass. The normal route is fun class 3 can be done from Laguna Grande de la Sierra in less than 1/2 a day. The top offers spectacular views of the surrounding region.
Approach and Route Description
The west side of Toti is best reached from Laguna Grande de la Sierra ("the great lake of the Sierra"). Take the trail and camp either in the caves, at the shores of the lake, or closer near the base of the Pan de Azúcar glacier. Circumambulate the lake to the south and hike up the rocks that lead to the base of the glacier.
Essential GearTo cross the glacier, an ice axe and crampons are required. If the glacier is covered with snow and any crevasses cannot be seen, it would be wise to rope up for the glacier. solo the rocks
External Links and additional infoAdd External Links here.
anyone who has any info of any other routes on Toti, please feel free to post add a route page.