The easiest access to the base of Toti is from Laguna Grande de la Sierra. The trail to here is clearly marked and a base camp at the lake provides an excellent access to many of the other peaks in the park: Concavito, Concavo, Portales, Pulpito del Diablo, and Pan de Azucar. Alternatively, if one wants to give the east wall a shot, one could take the more strenuous trail south around to Laguna de la Plaza and strike from there.
Red TapeOne must first register with Colombian National Park department before climbing Pulpito del Diablo. There is an office located just east of the town square in El Cocuy. As of 2006, the price is 7,000 pesos if you are a Colombian citizen and 21,000 pesos for foreigners.
If approaching from Laguna de la Plaza, there are many nice camps right near the end of the trail where it meets the lake. Be more careful here though; whereas there is no problem with storing food on the Laguna Grande side, there was an issue of “wild cats” stealing food left unguarded at Laguna del la Plaza.
Camping is free provided you paid the fee to enter the park.
Climbing: when, how ,and what to bring
There are multiple routes to the summit upon reaching the top of the glacier and base of the summit rocks. An upward traverse from the south side to the summit offers a class 3 scramble to the top; a more direct 2 pitch rock climb has also been reported.
Note for American climbers in ColombiaFor whatever reason, Colombia has an unsafe reputation among travelers from the United States. Although the United States Department of State still issues travel warnings for US travelers to Colombia, do not let this deture you from considering a climbing trip to El Cocuy National Park. I cannot stress it enough: the major cities in Colombia and the region of El Cocuy itself are all very safe places for travelers. I am not advocating ignoring the State Departments warnings, but just realize it is other far remote regions of Colombian jungle that are lawless, not the area of or between El Cocuy and the cities of Medellin, Bogota, and Cali.
Still useful information for consulting before a trip:
US Department of State fact sheet for Colombia
US Department of State list of countries with travel warnings for US citizens
Colombia is an amazingly beautiful country with nice people and spectacular mountains. The park itself, the bus ride there from the city, and local areas are are just as safe and secure as much of the United States. I personally would go back there without second thought in a minute.
Other info and external linksFor an example of expenses used to access and climb in El Cocuy National Park, please see that at the Pulpito del Diablo page.
Parques Nacionales de Colombia - El Cocuy : this is the official website of El Cocuy national park with general information about the park and a map (not too useful for climbers though)