South Slopes

Approach

Get to the popular Chester Lake parking lot on the Spray Lakes/Smith-Dorrien Road. Follow the wide trail and keep left at any junctions, soon entering a narrow path steeply leading you into the woods. Soon you break out of the trees into a meadow and Chester Lake is in front of you, with Mount Chester on your right. Follow the trail on the left shore of the lake, and once on the opposite side, take one of the trails heading up away from it, heading into the right valley. Remember to go all the way to the end of the lake before taking left, as there are numerous trails leading to the Mt Galatea valley instead. Continue down the valley trail towards the end, with The Fortress in your view directly ahead. Once you get near the end, Gusty Peak becomes visible on your left.

Route Description

Once Gusty Peak is in your view, start gaining elevation towards it, aiming for the large scree slope. Make your way up diagonally this way, keeping to the right side of the scree, where more solid rock and slabs exist. Remember the summit is on the right side, and going straight up and then following the ridge would be slower and more tiring, not to mention more difficult.

There are no difficulties when dry, but the overhanging mass of loose rock above you in the beginning makes a helmet feel like a good idea. A traverse toward Mount Galatea looks tempting, however the ridge makes a sharp and long drop-off making it look impossible without a rappel. Enjoy the impressive views and go back the same way, keeping away from the slabs, and looking for more pleasant scree.

The total elevation gain from the parking lot is 1100 meters.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, gaiters, helmet

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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