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South slopes

 
South slopes

Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.35040°N / 10.91603°E

Object Title: South slopes

Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA I/II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Lukas Kunze

Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2006 / Sep 19, 2006

Object ID: 227049

Hits: 1041 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

 
Southern route to Marienbergspitze
The route.

General:1000-2561m / 3281-8403ft, exposition S/SW, marked trails and unmarked scree fields/unsecured easy climbing
Effort:About 1600m/5250ft 4-5h (900m/2953ft from Marienbergjoch 2-3h)
Power:3 - steep scree/UIAA I
Psyche:3 - Belaying not needed but fall may be fatal
Orientation:3 - unmarked above Marienbergjoch

This is one of the standart routes up to both Marienbergspitze summits. In my opinion, this route is a bit more difficult than the route from Schwärzkar but it offers the better views. All the way up to the summit you' ll have phantastic views to the alpine main ridge (Stubai Alps and Öztal Alps).

Approach

 
Great view towards Fernpass
View from the route.

Trailhead is the gentle meadow of Marienbergjoch (1789m/5870ft). There are two general possibilites to reach Marienbergjoch:

  • from south via Marienbergalm
    Starting at the parking lot in Holzleiten (1087m/3566ft) trail #27A or #813 leads up to Marienbergjoch. Depending on the length of this trail I would recommend starting in Biberwier.
  • from Biberwier via Barberasteig
    This trail #51 or #813 starts at the parking lot of the chairlift in Biberwier and leads moderately steep up to Marienbergjoch (1789m/570ft)
Enjoy a rest and the views at Marienbergjoch, because from here still some 800m/2953ft of altitude difference are waiting for you.

Route Description

 
Yes, it  s steep...
The gully leading up to the upper scree field.

Starting at Marienbergjoch follow trail #29 towards Höllkopf (2194m/7198ft). After about 10min the trail crosses the scree field, which is coming down from Marienbergspitze. Leave the trail and start to ascent the scree field. Because of the steepness this is very exhausting, but its better than searching a way trough the larches if you try to reach the scree field from Marienbergjoch directly. I' ve done this one time descending and it was ok, because I had the overview you don' t have during the ascent.

After you got onto the scree field try to get to the grassy "ridge" in the middle. Keep on the left side of it and follow it up until it reaces the south slopes of Marienbergspitze. Here a gully starts, which leads up to the upper scree field. Be careful if people are infront of you (helmet!). After about 100m the gully splits. Take the right one and soon therafter you' ll see the steep grassy slopes and the upper scree field. Well there is no trail or something like that, but its not difficult to find a way to the visible summit.

There are some quite exposed parts, but its never really exposed. Additionally if the climbing gets worse than UIAA II, you' re on the wrong way!

NOTE: The rocks of Marienbergspitze and the hole Mieming Range are very fragil. Sometimes along the route you have to use holds. Be careful, because even if they feel solid they may brake loose without warning. Additionally take care of people behind you.

Essential Gear

Hiking gear is sufficient. If you want to make sure nothing happens, bring a helmet with you. The climbing parts in the gully are mostly UIAA I (UIAA II at some places) so a rope and belaying isn' t required, if you' re familar with such terrain.

Well, Marienbergspitze is not a really difficult mountain, but it is not the place to find out if you can handle easy exposed climbing. So if you' re not sure about yourself or people with you, bring a rope.

Page history

19/Sep/2006
18/Sep/2006
  • Initial page release.

Images

from HandschuhspitzeYes, it\' s steep...Southern route to MarienbergspitzeView from the south routeGreat view towards Fernpass