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South Traditional

 
South Traditional

Page Type: Route

Location: NIGDE, Turkey, Europe

Object Title: South Traditional

Route Type: Traditional (free) rock

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: VI,VI+ UIAA

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: nurettin

Created/Edited: Apr 15, 2005 / Apr 18, 2005

Object ID: 164640

Hits: 1857 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach


Start from Aksampinari camp, rise up towards Avcibeli col and turn right to get te bottom of the tower on the south face.

Route Description


As seen on the topo route starts from the middle of the face and first pitch ends in the little bowl. 30 mt, IV+, V- UIAA. Pitons on the way and at the belay point in the bowl.

Traverse right (V+) some 5 meters and find the anchor(a hole). Take the belayer to prevent rope dragging at upper sections.

Climb up towards the parallel crack. Right one is relatively easier bbut a bit loose at upper parts, V+. Reach the shoulder. Approx 40 m.

Climb up to the exposed balcony. 15 m.V+

Crux. Traverse left beneath the balcony and follow up the crack to the top belay point.VI,VI+.

Easy few meters to the top without a rope.

UNFORTUNATELY THERE ARE A LOT OF PITONS ON THE ROUTE.
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THEM AND AVOID USING NEW PITONS AS MUCH AS YOU CAN!

Essential Gear


Twin rope is strongly recommended for safe and easier abseil. Due to the nature of the rock and route (craks and pinned surface) rope can easily jam when you pull it down.

Harness, helmet, 10-12 quickdraws, 1-2 set camming devices (small and middle ones).

Images

Abseiling.TopoParmakkayaCold and wounded hands..Final pitch, seen from the...Preparing for the climb.I am leading the first pitch....
Foot of the route.2nd winter...At the top. January 1, 2005....