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South West-North-Traverse

 
South West-North-Traverse

Page Type: Route

Location: Argentina, South America

Lat/Lon: 28.0188°S / 68.756°W

Object Title: South West-North-Traverse

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: high altitude

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bergrot

Created/Edited: Jan 28, 2006 / Apr 18, 2006

Object ID: 168374

Hits: 2456 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach

 
Bonete seen from the road...
Bonete from SW

From the road to the mountain take the furthest left valley (seen from Laguna Brava) on the SW side. 

The starting point of the...
with 4WD at the starting point (4900m)
This valley is the end of a cascade of snow fields coming down from the north side of the summit plateau. Depending on the conditions, the driver and the car, 4WDs can go up to nearly 5000m. At this spot there is no water or snow.

Route Description

 
Penitients field at the South...
penitientes at 5100m

Since 4WDs can drive up very high and the route doesn't involve any difficult section it can be recommended as an ascent route for Bonete. Snow is available few hours above the starting point at nearly every site.

 

At around 5500m short before...
 

From the starting point follow the dry arroyo for the next hours. You will now pass the first snow and penitientes fields. Cross the first larger snow field and walk up the following slope. On a plateau infront of the next large snow field you can pitch your tent for camp 1 at 5700m. If there is not much time for further climbing don't go higher, because the there is no good camp site for the next two hours .5-7 hours

 

Sunset at camp 1 of the South...
Camp 1

From camp 1 follow the the cascade of the snow fields. There are several route options, but you can do nothing wrong. 1.5 hours above camp 1 the Caldera del Inca is visible. A last steep passage brings you to the plateau from where you can see the summit for the first time. 

View from South West side to...
 
It's a good place for camp 2. 5-7 hours

 

The last 300m to the summit...
 

From camp 2 it's two hours to the col to the north side. At the col the luggage can be deposited. From the col walk toward the the saddle between the southern pre-summit and the summit. From the saddle a rough sree slope brings you to the summit. 3-4 hours

After descending back to the depot the route goes nearly direct north. Avoid descending to early and traverse as far as possible north. Than descend in the lose and sandy scree of the NW flank. At 5500m is a possible place for camp 3 close to a penitientes field. It's an additional hour down to the valley, where one can find snow and running water (5300m). 3-4 hours

From camp 3 one can either follow the valley to the west in direction of Mieszkos Torn from where 4x4 transport should be possible or one can go north through the Gran Crater for Pissis in additional 2-3 days.

All times are approximations for climbers with heavy backpacks (~30kg). With light weight packs the summit can be climbed from camp 1 in one longer day.

Caldera del Inca from Bonete...
Caldera del Inca

GPS coordinates

 
andy gray
view from Camp 3 towards Monte Pissis
Location Latitude S Longitude W Altitude
Start 28.07927° 68.83123° 4890m
Camp 1 28.03236° 68.79086° 5675m
Camp 2 28.01971° 68.76875° 6417m
Col 28.01854° 68.75596° 6614m
Summit 28.01855° 68.75596° 6773m
Camp 3 27.99042° 68.77239° 5518m

Essential Gear

Normal Puna equipment. An ice axe can be usefull when obtaining snow for boiling water. Crampons are not necessary under normal conditions.

Images

Penitients field at the South...The starting point of the...Bonete seen from the road...At around 5500m short before...Sunset at camp 1 of the South...View from South West side to...The last 300m to the summit...