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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.10720°N / 10.59640°E |
Route Type:
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Rock climb. Ridge. |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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III (UIAA), PD+/AD- |
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Approach
You can arrive to the beginning of the ridge from Rifugio Carè Alto or from Rifugio Val di Fumo. Maybe it's bettere the first choice because you can go down from a different (easier) route. From the hut to the top you have to consider 6h and half. From hut turn on the valley located on the south and stay at the same altitude along a good trail. You cross Bocca di Conca, 2678m, and reach Passo delle Vacche 2854m. Here the ridge start, but there are more 100 meters easy to reach the Segala Bivouac.
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Route Description
From the Bivouac follow the ridge and the old trails and tracks of the White War (the local name of the First World War). Be careful to the stability of the fixed gear. Usually it is better to climb without using these. You have to go down from a peak (3162m). You have to restart going up (difficult climb, not too much) then, following the evident trail, you stay before on the Esat side of the ridge and continue in a couloir. Then stay on the west side and come back to the East till you reach the peak 3361. From this peak, fixed gear is new and you can use to go down and climb the last wall to the main peak.
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Essential Gear
The soldiers trail is sometimes dangerous, so it is better use only nail with your own rope. Normal shoes; consider that the descent is on the Normal Route and you need crampons and ice axe.
Very important: South west ridge is NOT a VIA FERRATA!!!!
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Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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