Squaw Rock sits on the crest of Indian Ridge due north of Smith Rock State Park overlooking the entire Central Oregon area. It is the largest pinnacle in the general area and the only one visible when approaching from US 97. Due to the visible prominence of the rocks and pinnacles in this area most of the early recorded climbing for the Smith Rock area took place here. More recently the easy access to this area has been closed to the public. A difficult 2 - 3 hour hike from Smith Rock is the most common way to reach these climbs. The required hike along with the poor quality of rock when compared to Smith Rock proper keeps all but the most die hard climbers out. As Alan Watts (author of Climbers Guide to Smith Rock) puts it "you can't call yourself a Smith Rock veteran until you stand atop the proud summit". For alpine views away from Smith Rock crowds a day approaching and climbing Squaw Rock is hard to beat.
From Smith Rock State Park hike due North through Sherman Canyon toward the highest visible Pinnacle in the area. This approach has the advantage of Squaw Rock being visible during the approach.
Turn off HWY 26 between Madras & Prineville on to SE Lone Pine RD. Traveling SE to Skull Hollow and entering the Crooked River Grasslands. Take NFD 1395 around Gray Butte to the NE side. Park Here ( UTM NAD27 Coordinates 10T 65022E 4921074N ). Hike down gated road to the South about 1.5 miles. Leave road ( 10T 649612E 4919119N) hiking a South Eastern direction traversing slopes & crossing two Barbed wire fences to Indian Ridge. The approach hike is full of views of the Cascade Range (Three Sisters, Washington, Jeff, etc.) fairly easy hiking with much less elevation gain than the Smith Rock/ Sherman Canyon approach. Watch out for the cow patties this is open range!
If approching fromSmith Rock State Park rules and entry fees apply. If approching from Skull Hollow Crooked RIver Grasslands you are on BLM Land and those rules apply.
When To Climb
Spring & Fall are the best, however, a warm winter day may be fun. Summers are very hot.
Fee camping area in Smith Rock State Park (Showers/water available)
Free camping at Skull Hollow outhouses available no water.
Primative camping on BLM land.
60 meter rope should get you to the ground in the two raps, not sure if a 50 would make it. A few rap slings/rings. A set of tri-cams. A hand full of nuts & a few large hexes to twist/wedge in large pockets. There are bolts to rap from the summit onto the ledge below. Suggest pulling rope and resetting rap from bolts on ledge to avoid rope hang ups.
**Pro placement is questionable at best, hence the X rating.