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Oregon Pinnacles

Oregon Pinnacles

Oregon Pinnacles

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Oregon Pinnacles

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter


Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2006 / Jan 15, 2010

Object ID: 171071

Hits: 21841 

Page Score: 89.39%  - 29 Votes 

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Monster In The Woods
Turkey Monster

This page is meant to serve as an at-a-glance reference of the various pinnacle and dome routes in Oregon. Individual pages are for the most part self-contained so no additional information needs to be posted. A more comprehensive summary of Smith Rock spires can be found here. This is Oregon adventure peak-bagging at its finest - enjoy!

Here's two more sites to whet your appetites: Wayne's (Oregon) site & Tim's site (...whose book probably got me interested in this stuff in the first place).

Another related object that might have some related info. is here.
For a different perspective...
Spire Rock

As seen from Beulah Reservoir
Castle Rock

Listing Of Formations And Routes

Oregon Granite
Rawl s Predecessor
Bolts Everywhere
Please Don t Leave Draws On Projects!
Rawl 1-Piece Bolt
Even More Bolts

The evolving list below provides at-a-glance summary of formations and routes. Only those routes that reach the summit of a given formation are listed.

Note that I've also thrown in some non-tower/non-spire formations (examples include Wolf Rock, Pilot Rock, Acker Rock) based on the fact that most hold obscure lines on them that rarely get done (just like spires) and the fact that they DO have a summit. I suppose this could be called "Oregon Adventure Climbs" page but that sounds less dramatic.

Central Oregon

West Face
West Face
Shirley at the belay atop P3...
Northeast Face
Steins Pillar
Steins Pillar
Squaw Rock approching from...
Squaw Rock
Rising Expectations (C1)
Rising Expectations
Monkey Face
Monkey Face

Monkey Face (Smith)
Pioneer Route II 5.7 A0
West Face Variation II 5.8 A0
Monkey Space II 5.11b
West Face III 5.6 C2
Northwest Passage III 5.7 C2
East Face III 5.7 C2+

Smith Rock Group Spires (Smith)
West Smith Summit A0
Arrowpoint - Northwest Face 5.2
The Platform 5.1 R

Staender Ridge Spires (Smith)
Flattop - Lost Fox 5.8
Flattop - Lieback Flake 5.4
Bette's Needle - Juniper Snag 5.6 R
Bette's Needle - Limestone Chimney 5.3
Staender Summit - Northwest Corner 5.3
Independence Tower - North Side 5.5
The Mole - North Ramp Variation 5.0

The Marsupials Spires (Smith)
Kangaroo - North Ledges 5.6 R
Koala Rock - Round River 5.4 R
Brogan Spire - Cave Route 5.6
The Marsupial Traverse 5.8
Brogan Spire - Loose Hookers 5.6 A1+

Squaw Rock (Smith)
Spiral I 5.1 X

Victoria Spire (Smith)
Catherines Ridge 5.6 R

Steins Pillar
Northeast Face III 5.8 A2 or 5.11a

Western Oregon

barad dur
Turkey Monster
Dod Route
North Rabbit Ear
Cave Route
Turkey Monster
Turkey Monster
Old Man (center) and Old...
Old Man
Aerial! Looking directly down...
Rabbit Ears

Turkey Monster (Menagerie)
Dod Route III 5.11 or C2F

Rabbit Eears (Southern Cascades)
West Ear Summit Route 5.5

Old Man and Old Woman
Dilley's Delight(Old Man) II 5.9
Northwest Ridge(Old Woman) I 5.4 R

Rabbit Ears (Menagerie)
Standard Route (South Ear) III 5.8 R
The Cave Route (North Ear) II 5.10a

Rooster Rock (Menagerie)
North Face 5.4 R

Pilot Rock

Wolf Rock
Coligula 5.7
Southwest Gullies Class 2-3
Barad Dur III 5.9 A2 or 5.11

Acker Rock
Peregrine Traverse 5.7

Shepard Tower Of Metolius
Northeast Corner 5.2

Elephant Rock
Ugly Loose Grovelly Chimney 5.7

Spire Rock
Southeast Corner 5.5

Needle Rock
Northwest Corner 5.8

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)
Scramble Route low 5th class

Breitenbush Ears
tbd ??

Columbia River Gorge

2nd pitch climbing June 2003
South Face
Pillars Of Hercules
Pillars Of Hercules
Phoca Rock
Phoca Rock
Phoca Rock
Cigar Rock

Phoca Rock
Southeast Face 4th class

Rooster Rock
South Face I 5.4

Pillars Of Hercules
East Route I 5.4

St. Peters Dome
South Saddle Direct (?) III A3 (?)

Little Cougar Rock
South Ridge 5.5

Beacon Rock (...practically Oregon)
Southeast Face II 5.7

The Rabbit Ears (a.k.a. Sacajawea & Pappoose Rocks)
North Face/Gully (TR) II 5.4

Eastern Oregon

North face of summit block
Castle Rock

Castle Rock
The Route low 5th class

Oregon's Tower Triple Crown

My choice for Oregon's three biggest towers is below. There might be other reasonable candiates (Monkey Face, Twin Pillars, others?) here but these in my mind are the ones that stand out. The top two have free (5.11) routes to their summits (though we aided both) while St. Peters Dome is strictly a nail-up. Easiest summit line ratings given for each as well. Rank number reflects my opinion as to the relative difficulty of the three (1 being easiest). Thanks to Anya Jingle for allowing me to use her html code as starting point for this.

Difficulty Rank Tower Photo Of The Tower Easiest Summit Route Location


Northeast Face (III 5.8 A2)
Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon.


The Monster



Dod Route (III C2F)
Menagerie Wilderness in western Oregon.




South Saddle Direct (III 5.6 A3 ?)

When In Doubt...

...call it Rabbit Ears!
Rabbit Ears (South is on...
Rabbit Ears In Menagerie Wilderness

Pic of the Rabbit Ears...
Rabbit Ears In The Columbia Gorge

Rabbit Ears view from the...
Rabbit Ears By Crater Lake

Mountain Goat on Rabbit Ears
Rabbit Ears In The Strawberry Mountains

More Towers

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)
Castle Rock
Needle Rock
Needle Rock
Chicken Rock - just below...
Chicken Rock
Steins Pillar from the Mill...
Steins Pillar
Little St. Peters Dome
Little St. Peters Dome
Orygun Desert Towers
Cigar Rock

Ship Rock

North Ledges Traverse Topo

Rooster Rock from the trail in.
Rooster & Hen Rocks

Asterisk Pass

Old Man (center) and Old...
Old Man

Pic of the Rabbit Ears...
Rabbit Ears

Goat on Rabbit Ears
more Rabbit Ears

Shirley rapping down the...
West Smith Summit

Rabbit Ears (South is on...
Rabbit Ears

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)
Castle Rock
Monkey Face from the...
Monkey Face
Looking north


Monster In The WoodsSteins Pillar from the Mill...Goat on Rabbit EarsSteins Pillar as seen from...Mountain Goat on Rabbit EarsRabbit EarsPlease Don\'t Leave Draws On Projects!
Elephant and Tumble Rock...Little St. Peters DomeSpiresLittle St. Peter\'s DomeBoca Cave/X SpireOrygun Desert TowersBelay Stance
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