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Stennis Chimney
Route

Stennis Chimney

 
Stennis Chimney

Page Type: Route

Location: Pembroke, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 51.59760°N / 4.94228°W

Object Title: Stennis Chimney

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: Severe (5.6 - 5.7 YDS)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Apr 15, 2010 / Dec 17, 2014

Object ID: 613559

Hits: 1288 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview

Stennis Head is one of Pembroke’s most popular little crags, being home to a wide range of quality routes for beginner and expert alike. Most of the routes are on the headland’s western side, and consequently, it can become quite busy. Those looking for a quieter time may find what they want on its South Buttress, the trickier access putting most people off. At Severe, Stennis Chimney is an adventurous route at an amenable grade, commencing with a long traverse pitch, before propelling the climber up into the depths of the chimney itself.

The best climbing is on the second pitch, which although well protected and never overly challenging, is exposed enough to send a flutter of excitement through most climbers bodies. The initial step out onto the route is particularly memorable. The first pitch is more of an approach, but owing to the nature of the climbing is best done roped up. Those wishing to get to the meat of the climb sooner rather than later can simply abseil to the route’s second stance via the line of Stennis Arête. So if you are looking for somewhere a bit quieter to spend a few hours, this route, coupled with ascents of some of its neighbouring lines, such as Maelstrom Chimney (S 4a) and the aforementioned Stennis Arête (HS 4b), is more than enough to conjure up a highly entertaining day of climbing.

FA: C. Mortlock, May 31st 1969.

Getting There

Pitch 1 of Stennis Chimney

Pitch 2

The route is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin (SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn (SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 9470). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).

From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road to Stennis Ford (SR 963 930). Follow the right (western) side of the zawn south and descend gradually to the start of the traverse. If you want to abseil in, just walk to the end of the headland and build an anchor there. Take care when doing so as some of the rocks are a bit loose.

Route Description

The route begins by scrambling down ledges to take a horizontal line just above the high tide line. Considering the route’s grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch.

Pitch 1 (40m): Descend from the end of a rock platform to follow an easy traverse line just above the high tide line. Climb around the arête and belay from a series of small ledges below a short corner.

Pitch 2 (30m): Climb left of the belay, stepping out to move around the bulge at the base of the cliff. Pick your own line up from here, either moving left straight into the corner or, climb the wall to the right of the corner directly (this is arguably a more enjoyable option). Easy moves, with great positions all round.

Essential Gear

The route is two pitches long and takes a variety of gear from small to large wires as well as a variety of cams. Double ropes are essential for avoiding rope drag. If you wish to abseil in, a static rope along with a set of prussiks (or equivalent) are also a good idea.


Newton Head from Stennis Head (Photo by Nanuls)

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 36 South Pembrokeshire/De Sir Benfro

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 158 Tenby & Pembroke / Dinbych-y-pysgod & Penfro

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer.

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers’ Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St. Govans Climbers' Club Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 4: Range East - Saddle Head to St. Govans by Gary Gibson

A superb and extremely comprehensive guidebook to the climbing along this stretch of coastline; includes descriptions of most of the routes at Stennis Head.
Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson

Not quite as comprehensive as the Climbers’ Club guide, but lavishly illustrated with tons of large photo diagrams and topos.

External Links

 
Stennis Head
South Buttress. The route follows the left corner (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Stennis Ford
Stennis Ford (Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority

Council for National Parks

Association of National Park Authorities

Natural Resources Wales

CADW

Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales

Dyfed Archaeological Trust

The National Trust

Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council

Pembrokeshire Climbing Club

Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group

South Wales Mountaineering Club

The Climbers’ Club

UKClimbing

Weather

Weather from the Met Office

BBC Weather

Tide Tables

BBC Tide Tables

UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales

Visit Pembrokeshire

South West Wales Tourism Partnership

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information

UK Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales

Independent Hostel Guide

Campsites in Pembrokeshire

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey

Cicerone Guidebooks

Climbers’ Club Guidebooks

Rockfax Guidebooks

Mid Wales Climbing

Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds

Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre

South West Wales Wildlife Trust

Sea Trust

Pembrokeshire Bird Group

Images

Stennis ChimneyStennis HeadStennis Chimney