Stennis Head

Of all the headlands in Pembroke, perhaps even in Britain, there are few that can match Stennis Head for its formidable array of outstanding climbs. This magnificent bastion of rock is one of the many gems in Pembroke’s jewel encrusted crown - the Castlemartin Range - and easily holds its own against its neighbours, those other two Pembroke paragons of climbing, Huntsman’s Leap and Stennis Ford. It boasts a combination of excellent single and multi-pitch routes, which populate every tier of its rock faces, and are almost without exception, accessible at all states of the tide. Easy access to its western flank is facilitated by a gradual rock ramp, while much of the eastern side can be reached either by abseil or, if the tide is right, a tricky downward scramble.

The majority of the routes are in the mid to high grades, most of which are easily accessible and rise steeply from the non tidal platform on the headland’s western side. Here you will find such classics as Hercules (HVS 5a), Manzoku (E1 5b), and Cool for Cats (E1 5b), while around the corner, the Pleasure Dome Area ramps up the difficulty, giving the superb Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis the Menace (E6 6b) and Grey English Morning (E5 6a). Hidden below the western access ramp is another of Stennis’ not to be missed routes, the superbly positioned and extremely photogenic rising traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a). If you’re an able climber, this really is somewhere you must visit, and if the quality of the routes alone isn’t enough to persuade you to climb here, then perhaps the aspect will. Despite being a headland, the crags of Stennis Head are nicely sheltered by the surrounding coastline, and its western platform in particular forms an attractive sun trap making it an extremely comfortable venue, even in the depths of a cold Welsh winter.

The climbing at Stennis Head can be split between two main areas: the South West Face, which is split between an Upper and a Lower Tier, and the South Buttress. Only the Lower Tier of the South West Face is affected by the tide, and even then this only affects a few of the routes.

Crags and routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the old Climbers' Club Guide to Pembroke, the old Pembroke Supplement and the 2009 Rockfax Pembroke guide. Since then, the Climbers' Club have published a new comprehensive guide for this area, Pembroke Volume 4: Range East – Saddle Head to St. Govans, which adds a significant number of new crags and routes to the area, though the changes to this pages' crags are few. Nevertheless it is recommended that you refer to this or the Rockfax book for up-to-date information and route descriptions. In addition to these sources Rockfax’s website also has descriptions for the routes included in its book, which can be viewed on its online route Database.

Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembroke, so don’t even think about it here.

Route Symbols:

A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated. A good route which is definitely worth a climb. A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention. An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

The routes on the Upper Tier can be reached directly from the descent gully. The face can be split into two areas, the Manzoku Area which takes the form of the western wall, and the Pleasure Dome Area, which takes the form of the souther wall.

Manzoku Area

Pleasure Dome Area

The buttress lies only a few metres to the right if the Pleasure Dome Area, but access from this side is prevented by the small inlet which separates the two cliffs. Instead all routes can be access by descending the obvious grassy rake on the west side of Stennis Ford, which leads to a broken rock terrace well above sea level, or by abseil.

This section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the east of Stennis Head. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and Stennis Head sit at around sea level.

Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Stennis Head:

Stackpole Quay (SR 992 957)

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A single 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag.

When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin (SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn (SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 947). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).

From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road to Stennis Ford (SR 963 930). If you want to access the eastern side of the crag, follow the right (western) side of zawn to the end of the headland and abseil off a metal stake. If you are heading for the more popular western side of the headland, carry on walking along the path to Huntsman's Leap (SR 961 930) and follow its left (eastern) side to a rocky ramp that descends onto a non-tidal platform at the base of the headland (SR 963 928).

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Stennis Head is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367.

For further information, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking:

Regional Access Database

If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones

Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority

Council for National Parks

Association of National Park Authorities

Natural Resources Wales

CADW

Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales

Dyfed Archaeological Trust

The National Trust

Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council

Pembrokeshire Climbing Club

Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group

UKClimbing

Weather and Tides

The Met Office

BBC Weather

BBC Tide Tables

UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales

Visit Pembrokeshire

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information

UK Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales

Independent Hostel Guide

Campsites in Pembrokeshire

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey

The Climbers’ Club

Cicerone Guidebooks

Rockfax

Mid Wales Climbing

Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds

Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre

South West Wales Wildlife Trust