Overview
| Overview |
Rock ClimbingThe climbing at Stennis Head can be split between two main areas: the South West Face, which is split between an Upper and a Lower Tier, and the South Buttress. Only the Lower Tier of the South West Face is affected by the tide, and even then this only affects a few of the routes.
Crags and climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Pembroke, the Pembroke Supplement and Rockfax's Route Database, so for full descriptions, please refer to these sources. Where the sources differ in their grading I have opted to list the highest quoted grade only, as I don’t want to mislead anyone about the seriousness of any of the routes. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! Route Symbols:
South West FaceApproximately 100 metres west of the centre of the headland is an easy gully that leads down to the start of the prominent non-tidal slabs which gives access to the routes on the Upper Tier. The slab ends beneath the right-hand side of the face at a narrow chimney which drops into the sea. Immediately to the right of this feature the cliff forms a white overhanging wall which gives Pleasure Dome, which overlooks the small inlet between the South-West Face and the South Buttress. Lower Tier/Riders on the Strom AreaThe first thirteen routes are on the Lower Tier, which can be viewed by scrambling down to the west from the top of the easy gully. The first five routes (Bloody Knee to Cut-Throat) are approached by abseil down the left hand side of the face. Don't do it at mid tide! The next eight routes (Riders on the Storm to The Anvil Chorus) start on the right-hand side of the wall and are approached by scrambling down an easy rib directly beneath the descent gully.
Upper TierThe routes on the Upper Tier can be reached directly from the descent gully. The face can be split into two areas, the Manzoku Area which takes the form of the western wall, and the Pleasure Dome Area, which takes the form of the souther wall. Manzoku Area
Pleasure Dome Area 
South ButtressThe buttress lies only a few metres to the right if the Pleasure Dome Area, but access from this side is prevented by the small inlet which separates the two cliffs. Instead all routes can be access by descending the obvious grassy rake on the west side of Stennis Ford, which leads to a broken rock terrace well above sea level, or by abseil.
Weather Conditions and TidesWeather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the east of Stennis Head. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and Stennis Head sit at around sea level. Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest port to Stennis Head:
When to Climb and Essential GearThe most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag.
Getting ThereWhen approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin (SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn (SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 9470). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road to Stennis Ford (SR 963 930). If you want to access the eastern side of the crag, follow the right (western) side of zawn to the end of the headland and abseil off a metal stake. If you are heading for the more popular western side of the headland, carry on walking along the path to Huntsman's Leap (SR 961 930) and follow its left (eastern) side to a rocky ramp that descends onto a non-tidal platform at the base of the headland (SR 963 928). Red Tape and AccessStennis Head is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. It should be noted that Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks or St Govan’s car parks for more information. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this LINK. It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café in Bosherston. Camping and AccommodationThere’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. Maps
Guidebooks
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