Stick Gully, 5.9-5.10c

Overview/Approach

Stick Gully is the broadest gully cutting into Bridge Mountain’s lower southeastern flank. This entire area is a popular winter destination as it is mostly south facing. There are several classic and/or potentially classic multi pitch climbs in the area: Birdland (5.7), Spectrum (5.11a) and Orange Clonus (5.10d). One of the more popular single pitch routes on this section of Bridge Mountain is Straight Shooter (5.9). Just to the right of Straight Shooter wall is a wide, deep and obvious gully/canyon named Stick Gully.

Stick Gully has five established routes as of 2011. Three solid single pitch crack routes can be found at the far end named Stickball (5.9), Stick Right (5.9) and Stick Left (5.10c). Across the chasm on the shaded wall (northeast facing) is a three pitch route: Nature is Fun (5.9+). Earlier in the gully, on the same wall as Nature, is a feature resembling the name of the four pitch route up its right side, the Elephant Penis (5.10a).

Head up as for the very popular 5.9 single pitch route; Straight Shooter. From the Pine Creek trail, turn right at a well cairned climbers trail to ascend the right ridge of the lower rock band below Straight Shooter and Brass Walls. Follow the ridge up and break off the trail towards the obvious broad gully up and right from atop the ridge. Enter the gully on the left side and follow an indistinct trail to almost the end of the canyon for the Stick routes and Nature is Fun route. The Elephant Penis is on your left side about half way in the box canyon we call Stick Gully.

Route Description (s)

Routes are Listed as you reach them in the Canyon/Gully

Elephant Penis-4 Pitches- 5.10a/

Left Side

Stick Left-Single Pitch- 5.10c/

Deep in and on the right side of the canyon is a very distinct roof with cracks running up both sides, Stick Left and Stick Right. Stick Left is one of the finer wide crack pitches in Red Rock. Wide as in #3 C4 to #4 C4 at the crux moves. If I led this route again, I would prefer a double set of cams from #2 C4 to #5 C4 and triple #3’s. The crack starts out with an overhang that soon has you stacking hands. Once you can pull the overhang, the climbing is much easier. Two five inch pieces will protect the upper part but you can slide one easy enough. The climbing definitely backs off after the overhang. This is an absolute full 100’ rap from the fixed station (2011). This route might be slightly sandbagged, felt more 5.11a to me. Dow

Stick Right-Single Pitch- 5.9+/

Stick Right is a great warm up for Stick Left. The crux is again at the overhang as you step out onto the arête. The climb is a pleasant well protected crack that is slightly shorter than Stick Left to its fixed rap on the right side. Dow

Stickball-Single Pitch- 5.9/

Right facing corner to the right of Stick Right

Nature if Fun-3 Pitches- 5.9+/

Directly across from the Stick climbs on the mossy NE facing wall

External Links

Over 300 routes detailed from first hand successful accounts by me or others at Red Rock Canyon. GET OFF THE TOURIST ROUTES and explore!
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association
Best True Technical Clothing and Accessories in the Outdoor Industry, Hands Down....the Legit Climbers Gear at Real Prices
Scarpa has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value and actually stand by their warranties
Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
Great Outdoors Depot

Images

View Stick Gully, 5.9-5.10c Image Gallery - 8 Images