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Stirrup Rock, 5.6-5.12b
Mountain/Rock

Stirrup Rock, 5.6-5.12b

 
Stirrup Rock, 5.6-5.12b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 33.96026°N / 116.02012°W

Object Title: Stirrup Rock, 5.6-5.12b

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jan 23, 2013 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 835055

Hits: 603 

Page Score: 81.01%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Dancin’ Daze-  5.8
Stirrup Rock

Remote (by Jtree standards) Stirrup Rock offers one of the better rock faces in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The heavily varnished south face also offers up one of the best moderate crack climbs in the park: Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater (5.10d). Dancin’ Daze (5.8) and Overpowered by Funk (5.12b) are also two of the better climbs at their grade in Joshua Tree.
 
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater-  5.10d
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater- 5.10d

Stirrup Tank is a seldom visited collection of granite spires located on the eastern fringes of Joshua Tree, beyond White Tank campground off of Cottonwood Springs Road (Pinto Basin). A tower resembling a western style stirrup (the “Stirrup”) gives the area its namesake. But the “Stirrup Rock” offers the most aesthetic climbs at Stirrup Tank via both north and south facing walls. Most of these routes were established in the 80’s by a variety of FAers. All of Stirrup Tank is a quiet area that you more than likely will have to yourself.

From the main park loop road, head east at the Cottonwood junction (Pinto Basin and/or Cottonwood Springs Road). Drive pass both campgrounds, Belle and White Tank. Fairly immediate after White Tank, turn left at Bovine Dome (parking area). Head down a dirt road to its end with a trailhead and restroom. Walk in and turn right down the first wash behind the rock facing the parking area. Head for the obvious dark wall in the distance, Stirrup Rock’s south face.

Route Description(s)

 
Stirrup Rock
 
 
Dancin’ Daze-  5.8
 
 
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater-  5.10d
 

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Walls

South Face
  • Fear of a Black Planet- 5.10c/*

  • Dancin’ Daze- 5.8/*
  • One arm bar up the short off width and then up the arete on huge jugs (sling for pro) to finish on an easy crack. Can rap off of the 5.12 crack to the far right. Dow

  • Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater- 5.10d/***
  • Very aesthetic crack climb. The crux of this route, as is the case with many featured climbs at Jtree, is off the deck. A micro piece followed by a C4 .3 protects a flarring and otherwise closed crack. Palm up the right side with a desperate layback going until you can reach a small hand jam. I found this section a sandbagged 5.10+. Might as well been 5.12- for me. From that point on, the crack was more like 5.9+ or 5.10- with plenty of rests. Can rap off right at the next crack over. Dow

  • Overpowered by Funk- 5.12b/**

  • North Face
  • Crack Kills- 5.10c/

  • Seebolt- 5.11b/*

  • New Toy- 5.6/

  • Jugular Vein- 5.8/*

  • Freckle Face- 5.11a/**

  • Do or Dike- 5.9/

  • Hold Tight ‘Til Footing’s Right- 5.11a/

  • Finger Bowl- 5.12a/*
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites
  • Images

    Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater-  5.10dThe Edge-Stirrup TankStirrup RockPeter Eater Pumpkin Eater-  5.10dStirrup RockDancin’ Daze-  5.8Dancin’ Daze-  5.8