Summit Ridge

Summit Ridge- Class 3-4

From the north or west ridges you must traverse a pinnacle-studded ridgeline. Stay on the south side and there are steep, nearly vertical gulleys to traverse across, by utilizing a few exposed moves. Between the first and second towers, descend the rotten south facing gulley until you can traverse a ledge back up onto ridge. The summit ridge broadens out at the eastern edge near the highpoint. Retrace your steps or descend the very steep and loose south face. This route is shown in Red on the topo map associated with the page.

South Thompson Peak Cirque- (Easy 5th)

Approach this climb from Fishhook Creek. At trail end, continue cross country on the north side and take the steep and brushy right fork up into some beautiful, but very rugged terrain. This route ascends the right fork of a split drainage marked by a dark concave structure. Eventually you reach a headwall below the Thompson Peak-Mickey's Spire Saddle. Stay right on this headwall and take the easy ridge north onto the Summit Ridge route. This route is shown in Dark Blue on the topo map.

East Ridge- 5.5 II

The first real rock route on Mickey's Spire put up by Lyman Dye and company in 1965. The East Ridge forms the north wall of the canyon leading up to Lake 9425. This route begins just above the vegetation and follows a couloir to an obvious notch. Continue through the notch onto the north face and then climb the steep east face ledges to the summit. There are other variations of this route listed in Tom Lopez's: Idaho A Climbing Guide. This route is shown in Pink on the topo map.

South Ridge Headwall- 5.4 II

From Lake 9425 in the upper north fork of Fishhook Creek, find the diagonal crack to the north and climb it. About half way up the headwall the crack starts and can be loose and broken, but keeps the climbing difficulty to a minimal. At the top of the crack there's a notch that leads toward the SW face of Mickey's Spire. After one long pitch or two shorter pitches of 5.4 on this face you'll top out and scramble left (west) onto the true summit. This route was first climbed by Lyman Dye and the Iowa Mountaineers in 1972. This route is shown in Black on the topo map

Descent

The Green Route shown on the topo map is probably the easiest descent route off the mountain - this leads back into Fishhook Creek.

Images

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