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SW ridge

SW ridge


Page Type: Route

Location: Valais, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.98000°N / 7.40000°E

Object Title: SW ridge

Route Type: Glacier climb, scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: F

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Oct 11, 2004 / Jan 30, 2005

Object ID: 162476

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Start point is Chanrion Hut (2462 m)

To Chanrion Hut :
From Mauvoisin Dam (1841 m) continue with the car to the big car park. The road along the dam is in principle forbidden for cars. Hut users can in theory continue by car to the point 1981 m. I advice to cover this distance by foot. Time to the end of the lake : 2 h by foot, 1/2 h by car : cross a tunnel and climb to the Ecurie de la Lia (2115 m); from here walk down on a gentle slope to the W bank of the lake (point 1981 m).
From the end of the lake, you need a 1,5 hours walk to the hut.

Route Description

The normal route over the SW ridge was the route of the first La Ruinette summitter, Edward Whimper himself !
From the hut to the summit : 5 hours.

Follow in northern direction the path to Tsofeiret lake (2572 m). At the Tsofeiret collar (no name on the map, between points 2642,3 and 2708), continue on the track at the right in NNE direction. Climb between Tsofeiret lake and point 2708 and cross the stone fields to Lire Rose collar (3115 m), 2 h from the hut. Follow the ridge. The moderate difficulties can be avoided on the left. You reach the big cairn of point 3740. You can continue on the S rigde or climb over the snowfields of the Ruinette glacier by good conditions. Climb the relative easy summit rocks and reach the nice summit cross of La Ruinette (5 hours from the hut).

To get back
By good snow conditions the descent over the Ruinette glacier is advisable. You reach then the point 3050,3 and the Brenay glacier. Follow the glacier or his median moraine, lower his left lateral moraine to the point 2624. From here the hut is easy to reach.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe, rope