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Takht-e-Soleiman massif
Area/Range

Takht-e-Soleiman massif

 
Takht-e-Soleiman massif

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Mazandaran, Iran, Asia

Lat/Lon: 36.37680°N / 50.96190°E

Object Title: Takht-e-Soleiman massif

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling, Canyoneering, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 15912 ft / 4850 m

 

Page By: nomad

Created/Edited: May 21, 2004 / May 22, 2007

Object ID: 152642

Hits: 16885 

Page Score: 89.39%  - 29 Votes 

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Overview

Click for Introduction to Central Alborz Mountains
Click for Nader's map of Takhte Soleyman Massif
Click for map of Central Alborz.
Click for aerial photo of a portion of the Takhte Soleyman Massif

 

Alborz (Elburz or Alburz) mountain range, north Iran, between the Caspian sea and the central Iranian plateau consists of steep, narrow, parallel ridges, the northern slopes of the Alborz are rainy and forested, the southern slope is semiarid. Alborz range is generally divided into west, middle and east Alborz.

At the north-west part of the middle Alborz, some jagged, rugged and not parallel ridge lines form a sub-range that contains about 160 distinct peaks higher than 4000m, called Takht-e-Soleiman massif.
The conclusion of the ridges at the middle of the sub range forms the lands second highest peak and one of the most technical climbing's named Alamkooh(4850m).

The area can be captured inside a rectangle (30km width, 40km height). 
The massif is limited by Taleqan valley from south, Kelardasht green plane from east, Abbasabad rain forest & thick vegetated hills/slopes at north and Shahsavar rain forests and 3000valley at west. 
One unique feature is being so close to the Caspian sea(-20m height from sea level) from north.
This massif holds Iran's largest glacial region on it including granite jagged peaks and walls and serious coldness and snow falls and unstable weather, unlike most other mountains of Iran winter consists until July at higher parts of this area.

Because of being close to the Caspian sea the humidity of the area is high so usually it's not easy to have a good view from nearby places even if the whole place is not captured in a thick fog.
You can clearly have a good far view from south, a big mass of white snow capped mountains. when you stand on a 3000m~4000m summit like Seechal(3719) or Koloonbastak(4156m) or even the Dizin ski-resort  parking (about 3200m)  that are about 50Km far from the massif.

Some granite mine works near the massif is the worst fact of the place, and gives the sense of destroying it's great nature. One more bad thing is that there is no mobile service coverage over the area.
 

Discovery
The Takht-e-Soleiman region was unknown until 1933. Douglas Busk, a British mountaineer, discovered and surveyed the area. Later on, Busk along with Professor Bobek made a detailed survey of this area. In 1936 the north-west ridge (called Germans flank) of Alamkooh was climbed for the first time by German mountaineers, which was considered a great achievement among European climbers.
 

4000m+ Peaks

Peak name Height (m) Start point Peak name Height (m) Start point Peak name Height (m) Start point
Alamkooh 4850 (2) Menareh 4378 (4) Gordeh kouh 4140 (5)
Shakhak(horn)#1 4795 (2) Haftkhan14 4376 (6) Korma 4020 (0)
Shakhak(horn)#2 4750 (2) South Siahgoug3 4360 (1) Sarchal lashgarak 4120 (12)
Shakhak(horn)#3 4782 (3) East Qobi 4359 (5) Haftkhan19 4120 (6)
Shakhak(horn)#4 4750 (2) Takht-e-Rostam 4350 (5) Mishchal 4104 (5)
North Khersan
4680
(2) Mian-se-Chal 4348 (2) Naft chauk 4100 (7)
Shakhak(horn)#5 4700 (3) Mishchal2 4340 (1) Chartapi abeedar2 4100 (8)
South Khersan 4659 (4) N. Gadoun kouh 4338 (4) Lez abeedar 4100 (0)
Takht-e-Soleiman 4659 (1) Tang-e-Galoo 4335 (3) Takht-e-Soleiman7 4100 (1)
Middle Khersan 4620 (3) Haftkhan9 4329 (6) Haftkhan15 4100 (6)
Viran kouh
4609
(3) Misan-se-chal3 4325 (2) Haftkhan18 4100 (6)
Siah sang 4604 (2) Haftkhan17 4324 (6) Haftkhan2 4100 (6)
Split 4600 (2) Siah quar 4320 (5) Lovie nua 4100 (9)
Marjikesh 4580 (3) Hezar cham 4317 (4) Muazi gardan 4087 (9)
Haftkhan1 4537 (4) Mian-se-chal2 4316 (2) Sare muaz gardan 4085 (9)
Marjikesh2 4533 (3) Tang-e-Galoo2 4310 (1) Sekonj 4080 (8)
Haftkhan2 (Lana) 4528 (4) Setareh2 4300 (4) Kelvan 4078 (11)
Chaloun1 4516 (2) Haftkhan16 4300 (6) Marsheno2 4074 (0)
Siah kaman 4472 (2) Tang-e-Galoo3 4280 (3) Mishchal 4067 (11)
Negin2 4500 (2) Haftkhan12 4270 (6) Muazi gardan3 4062 (9)
Takht-e-Soleiman2 4500 (1) Mishvar 4267 (5) Muazi gardan2 4060 (9)
Takht-e-Soleiman5 4500 (1) Ab(v)eedar 4260 (8) Do kaleh kamar 4060 (8)
South Siahgoug 4500 (1) Gale gardanak 4260 (7) Siah kamar 4060 (3)
Rostam nish 4500 (1) Great Lashgarak 4256 (4) Doozeh kouh 4050 (10)
Haftkhan3 4500 (4) Haftkhan11 4250 (6) Alanehrsar 4050 (8)
Clauch band 4480 (7) Sar sasped3 4237 (1) Kelvan4 4050 (11)
Small Chaloun 4480 (2) Setareh 4240 (4) Nezar 4078 (11)
Takht-e-Soleiman3 4480 (1) Zard gel2 4231 (3) Mishchal4 4044 (11)
Shaneh kouh 4465 (2) Takht-e-Marjikesh 4214 (3) Mishchal3 4042 (11)
Haftkhan4 4457 (4) Kal bazuan 4200 (7) Khoshkdar 4040 (0)
Takht-e-Soleiman4 4453 (1) Zard gel 4200 (3) Kelvan2 4040 (11)
Takht-e-Soleiman8 4450 (1) Zarrin kouh 4200 (8) Haftkhan10 4040 (6)
Haftkhan5 4450 (4) Chartapi abeedar 4200 (8) Haftkhan21 4040 (6)
Chaloun2 4450 (2) South's Siahgug 4200 (1) Mishchal6 4028 (11)
North Siahgoug 4445 (1) Haftkhan8 4200 (6) Mishchal5 4023 (11)
Haftkhan6 4440 (4) Haftkhan13 4200 (6) Kelvan3 4023 (11)
Chaloun3 4440 (2) Magas nafar 4200 (5) Harkate garan 4020 (8)
Negin 4440 (2) Kalchal 4200 (9) LashgarakSarband 4017 (8)
South Siahgoug7 4430 (1) Siah let 4200 (5) Divchalkhoshakesh 4012 (14)
Dandan-e-Ejdeha 4420 (1) Nefar Neqar 4199 (5) Masmoor 4012 (15)
South Siahgoug8 4418 (1) Chartapi abeedar3 4190 (8) Siah kaloo 4010 (8)
Mishchal 4410 (1) Divchal 4185 (8) Mishchal2 4008 (4)
Kalahoo 4412 (5) Small Lashgarak 4184 (8) Espeed 4000 (1)
Gardoun kouh 4402 (4) Chartapi abeedar 4184 (8) Haftkhan22 4000 (6)
Kaljaran 4400 (5) Takht-e-Soleiman6 4180 (1) Pasand kouh 4074 (0)
South Siahgug2 4400 (1) Siah lat 4180 (5) Marsheno 4000 (7)
Takht-e-Soleiman9 4400 (1) Pit quar 4180 (5) Sardasht 4000 (3)
Shaneh kouh2 4400 (1) Sarchal divchal 4150 (8) Delzoor 4000 (8)
West Qobi 4399 (5) South Siahgug5 4150 (1) Takht-e-Khers 4000 (8)
Haftkhan7 4389 (4) Siah kamar 4140 (3)      
* What are the  numbers under "Start point" column?  match them with the numbers in the "Getting there" section of the page.

Jan 2005 highest: Pasanskouh(4000m) left front - Siahkaman(4472m) middle - Alamkouh(4850m) the black stone behind Siahkaman - Takht-e-Soleiman(4659m) very right
 

Objects

Major glaciers
Glacier Name Base to top (m) Location Profile
Sarchal 4050 to 4230 between Miansechal and Takht-e-Soleiman peaks mass of ice and snow covered by a thick layer of scree and rocks that fall from the peaks
Alamchal 4000 to 400X north grooves of Alamkooh wall and nearby peaks mass of ice with plates of stone and scree on the edges
Takht-e-Soleiman 4350 to 4655 from Patakht near to Takht-e-Soleiman north side steep and vast
Marjikesh 4340 to 4500 groove between Siahsang and Marjikesh peaks(south) ice under scree load of Marjikesh
Khersan 4150 to 4500 between Alamkooh(south), Marjikesh and Khersan's horns and walls at west vast and steep
Haftkhan 3950 to 4400 fills all grooves of Haftkhan peaks north face and Negin and Takht-e-Soleiman south faces icy with small pools at the bottoms
Chaloun 3900 to 4200 fills the space between Siahsang an Chaloun peaks  
ShanehKouh 4230 to 4400 from Alamchal to Shanehkooh peak  
Split 4000 to 4600 west face of Alamkooh white ice with 3 steep flaps
 
Shelters and huts
Name Elevation (m) Location Profile
Sarchal shelter 3800 at Sarchal glacier under Takht-e-Soleiman peak big with numerous rooms, has a spring for water supply but it's frozen at early morning
Khersan hut 4500 on Alamkooh - north Khersan ridge metal, 15 persons
Siahsang hut 4550 south face of Siahsang peak near Shakhak peak metal, 8 persons
GardounKouh hut 4350 on Gardounkouh peak stone, 10 persons, hard access to hut at winter
Iran Federation of Mountaineering Hotel (IFM) 1400 Roudbarak village general hotel for mountaineers
Alamchal 4100 Alamchal glacier been destroyed by glacier movements
       
Most known impressive walls
Name Top Elevation (m) Wall height (m) Location
Alamkooh 4850 about 450m + 200m steep glacier Alamkooh north face
Shakhak 4750 350 Shakhak#5 north face
Takht-e-Soleiman 4659 150 Peak
Haftkhan#1 4537 350 Peak
Haftkhan#2 (Lana) 4528 150 Peak
West wall 4400 400 Sehezar - mianrood
Menar 4350 150 Hesarchal - Menar peak
       
About names if you are interested
kouh=mountain, shakhak=horn, chal=pit, takht=bed, soleiman=solomon, siah=black, sang=stone, khers=bear

Getting There


Leaving Roudbarak to the mountains...

Acording to the desired climbing region/peak these are the starting points:(see maps included on this page, it's recommended to supply a big map from Tehran with this title "Middle Alborz, by Gita shenasy", price less than 1$)

  • Roudbarak (The most known starting point for the massif)
    Tehran -> Karaj (by a 30Km highway) -> Karaj-Chalous road(a lovely writhen road inside Alborz range), 24Km before Chalous at Marzanabad village turn left toward Kelardasht -> Hasankif(green vegetated plane) -> Roudbarak village(1400m).

    From north Iran: reach Abbasabad city near Tonekabon city, a fantastic road would take you to Kelardasht in 45 mins. you can see the lush valleys,  hills and huge rocks that gently turn into Alborz high mountains, the caspian see and the Takht-e-Soleiman massif at a glance from this road.

    (0)   - Vandarbon - at the end of Roudbarak there is a dirt road, after about  8Km(40minutes by car) it reaches Vandarbon(2100m) 
    (1)   - Sarchal - at Vandarbon there is a 2way there is an indicating sign that shows the way: go right position, there is a narrow way beside the river that reaches Sarchal(3850m) it's about 4 hours walking
    (2)   - Alamchal - about 2 hours walking from Sarchal you will reach Alamchal(4100m~4170m)
    (3)   - Hesarchal - from Vandarbon indicating sign, go left after a long walk you reach Hesarchal(4000m) 
    (5)   - Kaljaran - before reaching Sarchal there is a 2way, right position reaches Kaljaran
    (10) - Lizounak - before reaching Sarchal-shelter
    (14) - Khoshakesh - from Roudbarak area you should go south to a valley called Khoshakesh
    (7)   - Naftchauk - it's the vally between Siahkaman-Chaloun ridge line and PasandKouh-Chaloun ridge line, reach there from Vandarbon - Sarchal way

  • Taleqan-Parachan
    Starting point fot climbing south parts of the massif, many ways to reach Telegan area, see the middle Alborz map

(4)   Taleqan-Parachan-Hezarcham
(11) Taleqan-Parachan-Domcheh

  • Shasavar-Seheza
    Starting point fot climbing east parts of the massif, from Chalous city go to Tonekabon city on the seaside road, find the river called 3000, go on the road beside the river (south) - follow the dirt road to reach 'Qazi Mahalle' ...

(6)   Shasavar-Sehezar-Mianroud - from Qazi Mahalle go west
(9)   Shasavar-Sehezar-Auroud - from Qazi Mahalle go south 

  • Dalir (8)
    On Karaj-Chalous road(see Roudbarak) 41Km before Chalous is 'Dozdband 2 way', go left(west) to Elit and then Dalir villages

(12) Gardaneye Dochak  - from Dalir walk to east to the cervix called Dochak

  • Nater (15)
    On Karaj-Chalous road(see Roudbarak) 37Km before Chalous is 'Makaroud 2 way', go left(west) to Nater village

Red Tape and Regional Hints

The whole Alborz mountains area and it's wild nature is a protected place, hunting, fishing and abusing the nature is prohibited
No fees of permission is required for climbing or camping
No problem  for camping but avalanche danger !

Karaj-Chalous road becomes 1way at 6.30pm on summer Fridays and Iranian holidays so cars can only drive to Tehran.

Numerous rock falls and avalanches, frostbite, getting lost, wild animals... ! so get enough prepared and informed about the region by the locals specially at 'Roudbarak Iran Federation of Mountaineering Hotel(IFM)' or hire a local to come with you.
Report your entrance to the region and the time you want to spend on the massif to the 'Roudbarak Iran Federation of Mountaineering Hotel (IFM)' or the locals before performing a climb, so they would send rescue if you are late.

When To Climb

Best For Haftkhan peaks is early August, for central parts is July-August, For east and outer parts is late June
Photography Late spring, the place looks great green including thin clear air and lots of snow on the mountains, a sunny winter day after a snowfall is the best, usually the fog and humidity are the restricts to get a good view.
Summer Sarchal hut may be crowded, numerous minor and some major rock falls happen often, and can cause changes in the routes or be deadly.
Anyway you can do the easiest hikes and climbs in summer.
Winter Heavy snow and ice, frequent unexpected storms may last days.
It would be a tough and technical attempt, requires technical winter equipments and you must know the region well, specially for Haftkhan peaks it might be the hardest attempt of the whole Alborz.

Camping

No fees, no permition, but be ware of the avalenches and rock falls before camping.

Links and Books

Links National Geoscience Database Of IRAN, This site includes great geo. informations about Persia, and it's mountain ranges, in English and Persian (www.ngdir.ir )[GO]
  You can find lots of 3D maps of Tehran, and parts of Elborz mountains above it and active fault lines of Elborz [GO]
  Some routes on the Alamkouh wall (Persian) [GO]
 

www.parsoon.com/alamkouh.htm [GO]

  About Alamkouh wall and a new route opening report in winter of 1991 (English)[GO]
  A Woman attempt report (English) [GO]
   
Books Mountaineering in Iran (Koohnavardi dar Iran) in Persian, by Ali Moqim
This book is a good guid including maps,routes, conditions... and any basic information you need for climbing mountains of Iran, also includes a list of books about mountaineering in Iran.
   


A fine picture showing Takht-e-Soleiman massif south face, early spring. Alamkooh is the highest point in the center. Picture taken at Dizin Ski resort "Upper parking" (3200m) and about 80Km far.


Two pictures taken from Alamoot covering the west face of the massif, click to see the details and the original sized picture to be able to find Alamkooh horn, Takht-e-Soleiman peak, the Haftkhan peaks, Khersans, Menare, Gardoon kooh...



Skiing

Dizin and other Irainian ski resorts become unusable at may.
While some areas like Takht-e-Soleiman massif and Damavand still contain skiable snow on the higher glaciers and parts of the mountains even till mid summer, fortunately there is no ski lines and elevators installed in these places so this places are still not crowded and ... but I have heard that some Dizin locals carry their ski equipments up the massif and ski at summer.

Images