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Pasand Kooh
Mountain/Rock

Pasand Kooh

 
Pasand Kooh

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Mazandaran, Iran, Asia

Lat/Lon: 36.39500°N / 51.00880°E

Object Title: Pasand Kooh

County: Kelardasht-Vandarbon

Activities: Hiking, Bouldering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 13366 ft / 4074 m

 

Page By: nomad

Created/Edited: Apr 10, 2004 / May 2, 2006

Object ID: 152507

Hits: 4175 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

Click for Introduction to Central Alborz Mountains
Click for Introduction to Takhte Soleyman Massif
Click for Nader's map of Takhte Soleyman Massif

North face:
 

Alborz range, Takht-e-Soleiman massif sub range is one of the most famous technical mountaineering places of Iran.
Climbers getting there to attempt  the 4400m - 4850m peaks from the traditional climbing starting point called Vandarbon, but the very first impressive huge face with a horn shaped peak at the top you'll see is the north face of  the under rated Pasandkooh, the number of higher peaks of the area is big enough for the climbers to ignore Pasandkooh and bypass it to the heart of the massif.
Route to Sarchal(3750m) bypasses Pasandkooh from north, and Hesarchal route bypasses Pasandkooh from south.

Vandarbon valley is about 2000m to 2400m Pasandkooh rises up straight from Vandarbon, this makes it a good looking mountain from Vandarbon.

The sight from the summit gives a peculiar feeling, Kormakooh(4020m) , Siah Kaman's huge north ridge, Sarchal glacier's plane and Aveedar(4280m) and peaks on the southern ridge line.

Note about my blue pictures : One day before I took these pictures in 2004Autumn the air was clear after a snowfall and everything had more colors, but the day I took these picture everything seemed blue first I wasn't proud of them but it gives a cold feeling reminding me my blue lone feelings of that day.
 

Topography and location
Pasankooh is one of the most outer parts of the Takht-e-Soleiman massif and it can be easily accessed from Roudbarak village by car.

The north, east and west faces are steep rocky slopes which drop down straight into the valleys, but the south face makes joint with other peaks of the Takht-e-Soleiman massif, the [north to south ridge line] that sticks to Pasandkooh's south face, includes the following summits :

Pasandkooh - Marsheno(4000m) - Naftchuk - Kalbazan - Kaleh gardanak(4260m) - Clauch band(4480m) - and a flank joints them to (Big Chaloun(4516m) - Siahsang(4604m) ridge line) from north-east.
 
Routes Introduce
(1) East route:
Maybe a glance from Vandarbon [looking left toward the summit] to the east route gives the feeling that this route is the easiest way to reach the summit, but existence of several rocky towers on the route makes it a technical and hard climb, this route is reachable from Vandarbon.

(2) Yal-e-derakhty route:
The normal and easiest route. The starting pitch from Vandarbon (looking to front/right toward the summit) looks like a steep hilly lower summit in front of Pasandkooh with some trees on it, top of the route is called Kandalkom(3540m) from this point toward south passing some rocky blades will end up to the summit. Avalanche danger exists on this route at winter and early spring, climbing via this route at winter requires at least 3days.

(3) South ridge:
Reaching Pasandkooh via the south ridge line is hard, and has the specifics of the east route, generally it's a drop down from Chaloun(4516m) to Pasandkooh
 

Getting There


Leaving Roudbarak to the Vandarbon Pasandkooh...

From Tehran :

(1) Using car
Drive Tehran -> Karaj (by a 30Km highway takes less than half a hour) -> Drive Karaj-Chalous road(a lovely writhen road inside Alborz range), 24Km before Chalous at Marzanabad village turn left toward Kelardasht (2.30 to 4 hours) -> drive to Hasankif (about 40minutes) -> drive to Roudbarak village(1400m (about 10 minutes).
(2) Prepare for climbing
There is a 8Km dirt road from Roudbarak that goes directly to the northern slopes of Pasandkooh, 
you can drive it even with your sedan car in about 30-40 minutes, but there is no place to park the car and feel comfortable about it, I recommend leaving the car in Roudbarak hotel.

Any way a van or 4W Car driver would take you to the slopes, paying him about 8000Tomans(about 8$).

As you go forward on the dirt road, Pasandkooh north face appears in front of you until you reach the end where Pasandkooh rises up, this place is Vandarbon and you must start climbing  "Yal-e-derakhty" route.

 
Yal-e-derakhty route:

Red Tape

The whole Alborz mountains area and it's wild nature is a protected place, hunting, fishing and abusing the nature is prohibited
No fees of permission is required for climbing or camping
No problem  for camping but avalanche danger

Karaj-Chalous road becomes 1way at 6.30pm on summer Fridays and Iranian holidays so cars can only drive to Tehran.

Not bad idea if you talk about your climb with Federation of Mountaineering Hotel (IFM)' or the locals!

When To Climb

Best June, May to September is well
Photography A clear day after a rain or snow fall
Winter Routes are steep so avalanche danger exists

Camping

  • Iran Federation of Mountaineering Hotel (IFM) at Roudbarak village 8Km before Pasandkooh slopes
  • Vandorbon and beside Sardabroud river are perfect.
  • There is no huts on Pasandkooh so you may have to bivouac...

Mountain Conditions

General The weather of Mazandaran and Kelardasht is unstable, even if the sky is clear and sunny, it may change state to rainy or thick fog in less than an hour.
and rainy Kelardasht means storm, snow or hail for high altitude points of Takht-e-Soleiman massif.
Winter Heavy snow, frequent snow storms + wild wind, avalanches all around !

Images

Pasand Kouh great north face,...Pasandkouh shorter than all...Easiest route to summit named...June 20, 2004<br />
 (L) Passand...I don\'t like thisJune 21, 2004<br />
 Passand Kooh...Pasand Kouh north face and...
First part of the...First part of Yal-e-derakhty...Early January, about 7Km left...Pasandkouh and...Pasand kouh in the middle,...Early January, Pasandkouh...