The Big Corner, 5.10+, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
Talk about “déjà vu”, the Big Corner could be Technicolor Corner’s (Flying Buttress) twin. The first pitches are trashy on both, but the 5.10+ corners are almost identical. It is easy to top rope this stellar second pitch (and it appears many do) after climbing Mars Attacks (5.8) which is a shame because it leads beautifully. The first half of the second pitch consists of fairly tame but fun hand jamming. In the middle of the pitch there is one bolt at a short off-width section which is not necessary as this section would protect well with a C4#5. Many find this off-width the crux but after one or two chicken wings and/or arm bars it was pretty much over. I found the final few meters at the top the crux. I did not lay-back any of the route myself and approached the tips finish by stemming and using facial features out right. The end offers one or two tenuous moves at the grade that are well protected with several Metolius #0's or their equivalent. I placed gear from that piece to a C4 #4 and placed one of every size. The only doubles I used were the #0 and C4# .4. You can rap with one 70m (maybe a 60m) rope twice or down to the ground with two 60m ropes. Hill and Maloney established this climb in 1993.
 
Approach as for Mars Attacks. This route is on the other side (east) of the same formation. Park at the Devil’s Bridge trail head (with a high clearance vehicle, otherwise hoof it from the paved trail head). Continue down the road on foot from Devil's for approximately another .2 miles. Look for a wash on the right, maybe a small cairn or two, and pick up a climbers trail that heads up to the very west end of “Fin Rock” which is the south facing wall to the north of Devil’s Bridge. The trail starts running below the wall and the Big Corner starts on the other side (right) of the large wall feature that forms Mars Attacks. The first pitch has a pin below a roof several meters off the deck.

Route Description

The Big Corner, 2 Pitches, 5.10+

1st Pitch- 80’- 5.9/ Folks complain about how dirty this pitch is but I have seen much worse. It actually has a few fun moves. Climb up the corner and pull a roof at the pin. Continue up the corner past some more steep ground onto a loose ledge and head for the fixed belay below the clean dihedral above.

2nd Pitch- 120’- 5.10+/ Start up the great dihedral with plenty of comfortable rests and hand jams for the first third. There is a small off-width section protected by a bolt but would protect well without clipping the bolt with a C4 #4 or #5. An arm bar and/or chicken wing or two gets you through this section in quick order. The start of the crux finish above affords a hand jam or two before it goes to tips. As soon as I lost finger jams, I went to stemming the corner with my left toe while face climbing with my other three appendages. I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of pitch.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

We had double 70’s, but I speculate that double 60’s make it to the ground no worries as well as with an easy pull. You might need a single 70m if making two raps.

Essential Gear

Double ropes or at least a 70m rope. Single rack from #0 Metolius to C4 #4, and maybe the #5 if the bolt is ever removed. Doubles of the #0 and C4 #.4’s. A few slings for the first pitch. Southeast facing, in April stays in the sun until early afternoon. No doubt a great winter morning climb.

Images

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