Window Route, 5.10, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
The Window Route on Supercrack Tower is one of the better tower/spire routes in all of Sedona, Arizona. The wild nature of the second “window” pitch is hard to match. A full stem up the window chimney leads to a dramatic roof turn out of it. The whole feature is really a large split in Supercrack Tower, more of an open chimney than a window. All three pitches are rated 5.10 and that is somewhat of a rarity (more sustained) amongst the moderate spire routes near Sedona, the triple crown climbs for instance. Dayley and Lyon established the route whilst Geiken-Joyner and Knarzer freed it.
    
The approach is a plus; unlike Oak Creek Spire where access can be an issue with the local residents or Dr. Rubo’s Wild Ride which is overlooking town, Supercrack presents a remote feel located way back in Wilson Canyon, hidden from Sedona. A pleasant trail (Wilson Canyon Trail) meanders along a wash from Midgley Bridge to its terminus in the wash. From there, an additional 20+/- minute hike along the wash leads you to near the end of the canyon with two towers on your right: Supercrack (east) and Lily Flower Tower. A hideous, but short, bushwhack up the drainage between the two leads you to the northwest corner of Supercrack Tower where the Window Route begins. Break out of the gully to angle right to the southwest corner of the tower. Turn left and follow the steep and loose ground above passing a significant corner that leads to the window. Continue along locating the bolt line straight up a closed corner in the slab. A 5th class ramp (coming in from the left) gets you started on the first bolt and is another 30’ up the hill. The entire approach takes approximately one hour.

Route Description

250’+/-, 3 Pitches, 5.10

1st Pitch- 25m- 5.10-/The consensus grade on MP.com is 5.10-, but this pitch could easily be rated 5.9 by Sedona standards. It is a fully bolted slab pitch. Start way left of the corner that forms the windows above. Follow an easy ramp right to a slab corner (no crack). Follow bolts up from there via slab and mantel moves to the vertical textured limestone band above. Traverse right to the first window box and fixed belay. I felt the crux of this pitch was the last traverse move on steep, less featured holds.

2nd Pitch- 25m- 5.10/This is one of the best pitches in all of Sedona. Stem up the wide window (open chimney) past two bolts and C4 #3 placement (30’). Place a C4 #.75 in the west corner and pull back out to the same side of the first pitch with a hand jam. Follow the steep finger/hand corner crack up to the second window with a fixed belay on the right wall, placing gear at will.

3rd Pitch- 25m- 5.10/Follow the wider crack up to a notch between two summits and surmount the one to the right with a fixed belay near the top. A C4 #4 or #3 is a good first piece off the belay. Then easy ground leads to a short off width crack. Perhaps the crux move of the route is near the top of this crack where I stuck an arm bar and heel hooked a jug out left. There used to be a chock stone in this crack but it is no longer. Bring your off width skills. I packed a C4 #5 and two #4’s and was glad to have them on this pitch. Then easy ground up to the notch, turn right and up 5th class to the top.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Three single rope (60m) raps back to the base of the route.

Essential Gear

Single rope. Single rack from C4 #.3 to #5. Double rack from C4 #.75 to #4. I used no wires. Half a dozen draws and half a dozen slings. All three pitches can be well shaded except for the sunny belays at the windows. A chock stone is missing on the third pitch, so I greatly appreciated the C4 #5. One could probably even justify a #6.

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Images

View Window Route, 5.10, 3 Pitches Image Gallery - 13 Images