From the Summit parking lot, descend south across a few yards of open ground to the top of the Summit Wall. You can scramble down to the bottom of the wall on either side of the crag. The Nose Direct starts just below the prominent roof in the middle of the crag.
Climb directly up a steep slap below the nose, below the left side of the roof. Look for an undercling, arete hold (eventual heelhook) out to the left, and solid juggy hold directly above you. procedd straight up over the top using some acrobatic moves and a dyno to another large jugg significantly higher than the first one. It might be a good idea to check out the moves from the right side before commiting to the crux and having to trust to luck. From below, the necessary holds are tough to spot.
This climb was once partially bolted, but is no longer. Toprope or solo it. Bolted nchors exist above, but because your toprope will be running out over the nose from above, falling at the crux could cause you to swing out to either side if your rope slips off.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
you should mention that is a top rope problem only, that there are good bolt anchors at the top (and use the ones to the left ((looking up from the bottom)) or you're doomed. Walk off finish. It's little stuff but nice to know.
Posted Apr 24, 2006 4:25 pm
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