General InformationSee The Complete Sawtooths List for every named rock tower, pinnacle, and unnamed mountain of note in the area.
ApproachOn Highway 75, drive approximately 12 miles south of Stanley and turn west onto Decker Flat Road. Two trailheads lead to Hell Roaring Lake: The lower one (poorly signed) is at .75 miles; the upper one, which requires 4-wheel drive, is the most popular and is at the end of the road, 5.25 miles from the highway turnoff. From Hell Roaring Lake two separate routes exist: an old fishermen’s trail hugs the northwest shore of the lake, and the other shadows the main trail, skirting the lake to the southern end (this is the faster and easier hike although it requires some log walking to stay dry). Both trails meet on the west side of the lake where a small stream drains from the lakes above. Staying to the right of the stream, a fairly distinct trail leads to the upper lakes. The trail skirts to the northwest of the first small lake then to the east of the larger lake. From here the trail becomes indistinct but basically heads up the large gully to the south of the Finger. From here, hike around the Finger below the east face continuing to the north face proper. The Book is the largest dihedral on this face.
Route DescriptionClimbing starts at the top of a snowfield on the NE side of the Finger.
Pitch 1: Starts off 5.6, turns 5.8 with 5.7 hands in 3-4" crack
Pitch 2: Same as Pitch 1 but ends on large 5.7 blocks
Pitch 3: Go left through a 5.5 tunnel up through a 5.6 ledge that tops out above the "book" formation- Avoid the right chimney and you may have sun at this point
Pitch 4: 3rd Class rock hopping to a notch
Pitch 5: Twin Cracks pitch on exposed 5.7 1-2" cracks. Then 5.5 slab no pro for 40 feet. End near a tunnel
Pitch 6: Climb 5.6 no pro through a tunnel under the large summit block. Watch for rope drag and emerge on the west side of the formation now. Jump across small ledge.
Pitch 7: Get Prepared- Cross Small 5.9 airy (the full route is under you) ledge with no pro. Just as you feel very desperate you could find an old pin to clip. Then make mantle moves onto summit.
Rappel of the NW side: 3 double rope rappels mixed in with Class 3-4 downclimbing. Look for existing slings or trees. DO NOT RAP off the tempting south side. That gulley is a rope eater.
Essential Gear1 or 2 ropes: 50-60mm
1 set of nuts, tcu's, camalots
No ice ax or crampons unless you go in May or earlier